New member saying Hello from down South in the USA

[redlining]

A very warm hello to all folks here. I have read a lot here mostly as a non-member, very very knowledgeable folks here. Finally bought a non-running 73 RD 350(I think). Now trying to fiddle with it to get it running. I will be asking for lots of help. This is my very first time working on a motorcycle.
I have ridden motorcycles from a young age but always took it to a mechanic for fixes, always wanted to work on one but life got in the way. Finally, I am getting around to it. I am going to be asking some very basic questions. Hopefully won't get trashed for it.

[tore]

Welcome!

The bike looks very nice. Can not be much work on it.
It looks like a 1973 but you can only tell from the VIN.

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[Gr8uncleal]

And a warm welcome! 

Nice looking bike.

Usual suspects for a non runner are dirty points, bad/no fuel, bad plug etc. If you do buy new electrical parts, buy original and/or from a trusted source - loads of fake parts out there now.

I agree with Tore in that it looks like a 1973 model and I have attached the service manual for it (don't be fooled by the file name!).

How far south are you? I've got a "forum friend" who lives near the space centre in Florida.

https://www.aircooledrdclub.com/manuals/DS7R5C.pdf

[Astute Greaser]

Indeed welcome.
Most USA bikes have an additional label on the headstock next to the punched in VIN number.
This repeats the VIN number and shows the month and year of manufacture, not necessarily the year it was imported, commonly a year after manufacture. Promoted as that year's model. So, for instance, if it says 05/75 (506) that is May 1975 and 506 identifies the Emperor and the year of his reign.

[pidjones]

Hello from East Tennessee. Nice find! You may be surprised when it does fire, but it is a great feeling. My RD400c had a leaky petcock, and put a lot of fuel in the crankcase before discovered. Luckily, a day or two (after fixing the petcock) of kicking it over with the throttle wide open and cleaning the plugs resulted in the sounds we love to hear. Try your local NAPA for plugs - I don't think they source from the Chinese knock-off market. Prepare for a lot of reading on this and other sites. Check tires age - never ride on tires old enough to vote!

[Astute Greaser]

Not just the tires - do the inner tubes as well, most would take that as a given but I've seen different . Also, the brakes shoes and pads, they can fall off their metal backings as age causes the adhesive to give up.

[Motty]

Welcome to the Forum, I hope you will soon have the bike running

Richard

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[tore]

Not just the tires - do the inner tubes as well, most would take that as a given but I've seen different . Also, the brakes shoes and pads, they can fall off their metal backings as age causes the adhesive to give up.

Interesting. I found the 40+ years old inner tubes in better shape than brand new. Nice think rubber vs thin plastic

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[Ozhammer]

Welcome to the madhouse and nice looking bike you have there.

I have just bought my first Aircooled 350 but it is sadly a long way back in the resto queue but the price was too good to say no to.

Good luck with your journey, hope you have fun along the way.

[redlining]

Thank you all for the very warm welcome. I am in upper Georgia a little too far from the space center in FL. The tires look ok but the bike seems to have sit for a while and I get no spark when I kick it over. I bought a AGM type battery( the smaller Alarm battery type), new BR8HS spark plugs. The electrics seem to be ok. I get headlight, brake light, neutral light and the lights in the dials.
I just have no spark. I did read a lot here and tried to measure voltage and seem to get 12V at the coils and by the points. The points look pitiable though! Will attach a pic here. If someone can tell me what the white stuff is everywhere would be a big help.
Also if someone can tell me how to check coils or condensor with a multimeter will help this newbie out, please explain in detail. I am pretty ignorant when it comes to this (all the more laughable as I studied Electrical engineering ).
Also let me know if I need to post this in any other thread?

[redlining]

Indeed welcome.
Most USA bikes have an additional label on the headstock next to the punched in VIN number.
This repeats the VIN number and shows the month and year of manufacture, not necessarily the year it was imported, commonly a year after manufacture. Promoted as that year's model. So, for instance, if it says 05/75 (506) that is May 1975 and 506 identifies the Emperor and the year of his reign.

Thanks! What and where is the headstock?

[5port]

The points area has had a bit of damp in there. It is possible that the points don't move properly if stuck on the posts and, possible some of the wire connections are not good now.  So, it would all come up OK with cleaning and a light dose of maintenance spray. The screws don't look to have been touched. A good plan would be new points and that full clean and re-do all the electrical contacts. On a similar note, there are several things that really should be checked/changed. Safety-wise, tyres and tubes renewed, brake pads and hoses replaced and new fluid with Mastercylinder and caliper overhaul unless in great condition.  Then, there are the FULL Yamaha service checks, plugs, points gaps and timing, air filter, oil change, grease headstock, swingarm and wheelbearings, lube cables etc. Carbs should really come off and be checked inside for corrosion or incorrect parts.  Also, I would suggest renewing the chain and sprockets as the chain can suffer just standing in a bit of damp or, if battery acid vapour has got it.
BTW, engine oil should be 10w-30 with JASO MA2 standard, to prevent clutch slip.
Overall, this is quite a lot of work but, it should provide a safe rebuilt bike.  You cannot count on just cleaning it and riding.
Yes, post work on the 250 and above Tech questions or, in the Restoration topic.
Cheers

5port
         

[pidjones]

Basic coil/points/condenser ignition - 12V supplied to the coils (usually through the key and ON/OFF/ON switch), and grounded through CLOSED points. Opening points collapses the field int the coil generating HV in the secondary to fire the plug. Condensers are just capacitors used to reduce points arcing. Often there is also a "ballast" resistor to reduce current in the coil. My RD400c had a similar-looking timing compartment. Clean it up, clean all connections, clean the points contacts, and it might fire (but may be WAY out-of-time). Lots of 2T lovers in GA, SC, NC, TN.

[Astute Greaser]

Indeed welcome.
Most USA bikes have an additional label on the headstock next to the punched in VIN number.
This repeats the VIN number and shows the month and year of manufacture, not necessarily the year it was imported, commonly a year after manufacture. Promoted as that year's model. So, for instance, if it says 05/75 (506) that is May 1975 and 506 identifies the Emperor and the year of his reign.

Thanks! What and where is the headstock?

The headstock is the slightly inclined vertical big diameter tube at the front of the frame that contains the central pivot to guide the front wheel under the handlebars. Look behind your headlight and the label may be visible
Find an example of the VIN label

[redlining]

Basic coil/points/condenser ignition - 12V supplied to the coils (usually through the key and ON/OFF/ON switch), and grounded through CLOSED points. Opening points collapses the field int the coil generating HV in the secondary to fire the plug. Condensers are just capacitors used to reduce points arcing. Often there is also a "ballast" resistor to reduce current in the coil. My RD400c had a similar-looking timing compartment. Clean it up, clean all connections, clean the points contacts, and it might fire (but may be WAY out-of-time). Lots of 2T lovers in GA, SC, NC, TN.

Last question here. When you all say clean up the connections, is it with Contact cleaner? Will that remove all the white powdery stuff?