Gearbox build

[Mark N]

Anybody help with a problem rebuilding gearbox.  The selector shaft needs to sit deeper into the crankcase than the main shaft.  What stupid schoolboy error am I making?

[Alistair64]

Hard to tell where you're going wrong, but the whole gearbox cluster can be placed into the left-hand crankcase as it is.
The middle fork of the selector engages with the mainshaft; 2 outer forks engage with the layshaft.
I've attached a photo from when I was assembling my engine, which may or may not help.

First post?
Just a suggestion, but a short introduction, what bike you have and maybe a 'please' or 'thank you' thrown in for good measure may get you more replies.

[Mark N]

Thanks for that.  Its an RD200 1973. 


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[Mark N]

Wahey.  Managed to sort the problem (well, I didn’t, got some advice!!).  On the main shaft is the spacer that should go between the sprocket and bearing.  I must’ve shoved it on there when I stripped it for safe keeping.
What a schoolboy error. Doh!

Thanks everyone for looking anyway.  Onwards and upwards. 

Project RD is back on. 


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[Gr8uncleal]

Well done.

It's a well used phrase, but we learn more from our mistakes than when we get things right.

[Mark N]

Well done.

It's a well used phrase, but we learn more from our mistakes than when we get things right.

Very true.  Though, I’d kind of not like to have the opportunity to learn too much more from mistakes. 


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[Alistair64]

Yes, glad you got it sorted so easily.
Have you downloaded the parts list for your bike yet, because if not, it would be a good idea?
Have a look in the 'Manuals' section of this web-site.
I'm not sure what model you have exactly, but guessing it would be an RD200A or B from 1973 (probably the same list anyway).

[Mark N]

Good call.  I will download it. Certainly going to need a good few parts, so will be good to know which ones I’ll need.  Thanks for that.  😁
Currently stripping it down ready for a trip to powder coaters (hopefully tomorrow).   🛠

Regards,

[Gr8uncleal]

Don't forget to mask/blank off internal and external threads, areas where parts fit tightly (eg head races and swing arm bushes) and earthing points.

[Alistair64]

Good call.  I will download it. Certainly going to need a good few parts, so will be good to know which ones I’ll need.  Thanks for that.  😁
Currently stripping it down ready for a trip to powder coaters (hopefully tomorrow).   🛠

Regards,

If you have trouble obtaining any parts that you need, don't be afraid to ask on here.
Two examples of impossible-to-obtain parts that spring to mind are the handle for hoisting the bike onto the centre stand and the rear wheel dust cover.
Excellent copies have been fabricated by members.... I'm sure there are other parts too.
I'm not sure if your bike would have these same parts, but they are examples which apply to the later models.

You certainly sound like you're getting stuck in quickly. Let's face it, most of us have plenty of time on our hands at the moment!

[Mark N]

Don't forget to mask/blank off internal and external threads, areas where parts fit tightly (eg head races and swing arm bushes) and earthing points.

Thanks for the tip.   I’ve been advised that the good folks at the Powder Coaters will do it for me.   Couple of folk local have said same thing independently.  That said, it wouldn’t hurt to do it myself.  Belt and braces approach and all that. 

Mind you, I’ve a trip to the dentist booked in the morning beforehand to get a tooth that feels about the size of an elephants tusk removed, so quality masking could be a bit lacking! 


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[Mark N]

Good call.  I will download it. Certainly going to need a good few parts, so will be good to know which ones I’ll need.  Thanks for that. 
Currently stripping it down ready for a trip to powder coaters (hopefully tomorrow).   

Regards,

If you have trouble obtaining any parts that you need, don't be afraid to ask on here.
Two examples of impossible-to-obtain parts that spring to mind are the handle for hoisting the bike onto the centre stand and the rear wheel dust cover.
Excellent copies have been fabricated by members.... I'm sure there are other parts too.
I'm not sure if your bike would have these same parts, but they are examples which apply to the later models.

You certainly sound like you're getting stuck in quickly. Let's face it, most of us have plenty of time on our hands at the moment!

Hi,

Thanks for the heads up.  I certainly will need both those items.  The former isn’t actually there and the latter is rusted badly, and beyond repair I’d think. 

I got hold of the bike off of ebay, and have no idea of its history.  You guessed correctly, its a ‘73 model.  Not sure if its A or B, my knowledge isn’t sufficient to say either way. 
I do know its been left outside in the elements in its later life.  A few of the bits look to have been sold for parts, I’d guess.  The engine was actually badly seized, but apart from that it wasn’t in too bad a condition.  Its has 11k odd miles on the clock and to my untutored eye, that feels about right.
 
Ha.  Yes, indeed.  I’m actually furloughed at the moment.  Well, just for this week anyway plus one day a week, so its a grand opportunity really.

Regards


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[ajh]

Don't forget to mask/blank off internal and external threads, areas where parts fit tightly (eg head races and swing arm bushes) and earthing points.

Thanks for the tip.   I’ve been advised that the good folks at the Powder Coaters will do it for me.   Couple of folk local have said same thing independently.  That said, it wouldn’t hurt to do it myself.  Belt and braces approach and all that. 

Mind you, I’ve a trip to the dentist booked in the morning beforehand to get a tooth that feels about the size of an elephants tusk removed, so quality masking could be a bit lacking! 


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Might want to mask up the frame number as well as powder coating will fill the numbers


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[Mark N]

Very good idea.  Will do, don’t want to lose sight of that. 


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[Astute Greaser]

Welcome Mark
Glad to see another Round tank being brought back to life.
Download the excellent model guide by SupeRDel to identify your model but 1973 almost certainly 'A'.
https://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=650.0

Obvious cosmetic differences between 'A & B' UK round tanks (397), not true for other countries.
The 'A' had recycled/shared parts from CS5.
'A' square Pillion Pegs are right angle onto swinging arm. 'B' round Pegs inclined back to enable rider to kick back out of way, shared with coffin bike 1E8
'A' Bare switchgear, LH has all lighting controls, RH only has start button. 'B' Black switchgear, LH dip/high beam, RH lights on/off.
'A' tank badges are screwed on. B no badges instead decals. Check out the decals in model guide.
'B' front and rear drum have rubber inspection plugs to check brake wear. 'A' do not but you can see cast marks for provision.
'A' front mudguard elongated and 2 holes for mounting Razor blade - number plate.

Observed by me and others will contest and suggest more differences  . Of course over the years the bikes did see plenty mix and match and during production runs there may/will be overlap of bits.

Nothing originally on bikes saying A/B or even RD  , other than the Owners manual that came with bike.
Of course the frame number sequence can be used but Yamaha were notorious for confusion on this
Clear as mud
-Mike