Pidjones' bicentenial build (a '76 RD400)

[pidjones]

I would put the wiring loom, rear plastic mudguard, switch gear, coil packs, brake pipes, battery box, relay panel, the engine can go in quite late.

The mudguard - is it tricky to get in later? Hadn't thought of it. I guess it will come out of the shed along with the air box this morning.

[Gr8uncleal]

Just some randoms:-

1) Make sure that the coating on the handlebars doesn't interfere with the handlebar switches getting their earth (apologies if this has been covered already!).
2) Battery box can be removed/replaced in isolation (I had to do it to replace the block connector for the oil level light). Just remember that the flasher relay hooks on to the underside.
3) I don't think that anything gets in the way of the plastic half of the rear mudguard.
4) If they've been separated for any reason, I would fit the rear light and route the wiring to the metal half of the rear mudguard before fitting this.
5) Re (4) above, fit the rear grab rail to the rear mudguard before fitting the light.

[Phil S]

The Airbox can be tricky worth fitting early on

[pidjones]

Thanks, guys! Today, I washed and mounted the inner mudguard and airbox. Also, the headlight bowl and front indicators. With all of that on, why not poke the wiring loom in and connect all of that? Whew! sure glad I had printed oht the USA color wiring diagram. Also spent time cleaning up the front and rear chrome mudguards. This is not my favorite task. Over the years I've found the most effective way to clean old chrome and remove tge haze of tiny rust "blooms" is a wad of aluminum foil dipped in vinegar.  And I hate the smell of vinegar!  They look nice now though. Not show quality but nothing to embarrass me when pulling up to the Time Warp Tea Room next summer. Got some paint on the three brackets used for mounting the motor, and finished off by mounting the front caliper, master, and brake line. The 800mm line from an Amazon vendor seems to fit just right (eliminating the little pipe). BTW, removing the brass seal in aftermarket calipers is easily done with a drywall screw grabbed with a pair of pliers.

[pidjones]

Moving forward (hopefully). The lump is mounted as well as the rear mudguard and wiring back to the tail light and signals.

[pidjones]

Exhaust and rear brake installed. They started on our house today. 12x12 foot deck and 4x6 landing, stairs to both all demo'ed. They will be back after the holidays and replace with new. I'll bleed the brakes tomorrow and hook up the battery (supposed to be delivered tomorrow) to see how the electrics look. Later in the week will roll it to the shed to store for the demolition of the garage ceiling.

[Motty]

You have certainly been making progress prior to the building work starting

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

[pidjones]

Battery came in yesterday evening, and everything non-engine related seems to work except the signals. Think we might need a new flasher.

[tony2stroke]

clean it all up and re-use it mate, you won't get one as good quality new.

[pidjones]

clean it all up and re-use it mate, you won't get one as good quality new.

Well, that appears to be the only option right now. Ran it for 20 minutes in isopropyl in the ultrasonic cleaner, resoldered the pulled capacitor lead. It works now, but buzzes for a couple seconds first.

Brakes are bled now. Not perfect, but a good amount of pedal and lever available. Carbs need to go on next. I will pull them apart one more time to check setup first.

[pidjones]

Ok, I got the 3 pole electronic flasher to work. Yamaha for some reason swapped the load pole position on the relay. All that I had to do was swap the yellow/green connector with the brown/white connector, and at least flasher-wise, it is working great! Remind me in four or five montbs to report on if the cancelling function works.

[pidjones]

Probably the last photo for a while. Carbs are on, everything hooked up except fuel and oil supply lines. Now to wait for weather to paint, decal, and clear the tanks and side cover. Then make smoke!

[pidjones]

This happened today. Sheetrock was ripped out in the garage (just one sheet) to replace the cantilevered joists covered with a blue tarp in this photo. Sheetrock will have to stay off until the building inspector has looked at it now. But, the 12' X 12' deck is framed and laid. Moving forward! Decking is Fiberon composite. Material prices have gone through the roof due to COVID and hurricanes, but I had promised the wife to do it this year.

[pidjones]

Took the wheels in and had the new Shinko 712s mounted. 100/90 front, 3.50 rear (all I could find). The front required that fender to be raised to the lower hole in the mount. BTW, the tires removed were 3.60 front and 4.00 rear.
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[pidjones]

Fiddle pharting around until weather breaks and I can paint. Disassembled my paint guns and ran them through the ultrasonic cleaner. Installed a new gasket on the fuel tank cap. Gasket was from Sumo rubber parts. Ground and drilled the rivets out, cleaned it all up with the wire wheel, than reassembled with pop rivets. It got up over freezing today (barely), and the guys are supposed to be here tomorrow to finish the front deck. Next week MIGHT see painting weather (doubtful, though). I do have the paint from RS Bike Paints. It is waterborne, so will be a whole new trick for me to learn. Everything that I've read and watched about it indicates that it should be easier than the lacquer that I have been using. I will still clear coat with 2K rattle can from SprayMax. I have 2 cans of it - one for after the color is fully dry, and one for after the decals are on and several days drying.