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Torque Introduction / New/Old Forum Member and Project Bike
« Last post by cr750 on Today at 11:19:31 AM »
From a long time ago, I might have been a forum member, but couldn't find my old ID.


I've got a few bikes and one of them is an RD350 I've owned since about 1976. It was a basket case when I bought it, and I've rebuilt it several times over the past years. About 10 years ago, I thought it might be nice to make a little project of the old RD. Here is a quick outline of what has been done starting from the front -
LC forks with Grimeca caliper, Venhill lines to a "who knows" master, flat bars, Suzuki TS X quick action throttle, Scitsu tacho on a fabricated mount, unknown headlight shell, PowerDynamo ignition and 180W permanent magnet altenator, my own wiring loom front to back, ported cylinders (local guy with experience), VForce reeds, balance pipe manifolds, big Uni filters, Dale A / Dave Friest carb mods, modified R1Z crossover GP-style pipes, my own rearsets, modified LC (was monoshock) swingarm, TZ ducktail, home made brake/tail light, and modified (cable operated) rear brake.

My other project is to build a 1980 IT125H. This bike started out as a DT175 engine. Had to procure the entire rest in bits and pieces over time.
Yes, Long engine lower bolt and brake operating lever spring. ;)


Hi Al,

Dont know if these will help, its pissing down at mo so cant get the bike out to get some better pics from behind/under but can do that next time I get bike out. Could there be a brake light spring on some models? (mine has a pressure switch)

Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: vape videos
« Last post by david3378 on Today at 10:53:44 AM »
thanks a lot. i am running with a battery.  it seemed early on like my new regulator was the issue?? tech support at economy cycle said unplug the red wire from the regulator and it'll run. so, i did that and it worked. i just wonder what will happen when running without a regulator. now i'm trying to figure out my carb issues. my bike is all stock except for my k&n air filter. i would like to have suggestions on which jet needle to use? clip position? main jet? pilot jet? elc? all help appreciated. thanks so much.
Putting Betty's 'C' parts onto the correct frame and I'm struggling to see what the following two holes are for on the right side exhaust/passenger footrest stay:-

1) Lower front - looks like it lines up with lower rear engine mount bolt.
2) Hole in small protrusion on the inside - looks like it should take one end of a spring.

A photo of the part that I'm referring to is attached.

All replies, polite or otherwise  :D, will be gratefully received.  ;)

Astute Greaser, did you put any thread sealant on the bolts which go up through the bottom of the lower fork legs (the ones with the copper washers on)? The Haynes manual says to do so, but I could not see any evidence of it when it took mine apart. Also, I am a bit wary about the whole assembly inside rotating (due to the sealer "locking" the thread) when I am trying to undo the bolts in any future rebuilds. I have a thread sealant which only takes about 7Nm of torque to breakout, so might use that. Thank you Nivag.
Restorations Diary / Re: My DS7 Journey
« Last post by 5port on Today at 07:46:07 AM »
Your tuned YR5 is piston ported.  That means the inlet porting has to be quite long duration for high power and symmetrical, the skirt closes the port very late to get performance timing. That leaves you with a much more top-end biased powerband.  The RD reed valves allow wild inlet porting but prevent too much blow-back to the carbs at lower revs, giving a better low revs performance and, still a great top end.  That sharp tuned R5  powerband is why you need the closer ratio gearbox from the RD400.  Even an RD400 with its better low-end benefits from the closer ratio's.   :)
Overall, the RD350 cylinders probably make a better tuned bike than the R5.  No problem if you have a personal reason to want the tuned R5 but, that is just the way they are.

Torque Introduction / Re: Im in a right pickle...
« Last post by ajh on Today at 07:28:19 AM »
Thanks, I will start reading up. AJ,  meant the idle/slow running adjustment needle.   I have discovered that neither slow running mixture needle has a spring under it, but I dont suppose that makes a difference other than stopping them eventually coming unscrewed?
The right hand mixture screw has a ripped O ring, could that make a difference?
I wonder if I wasnt careful enough in the cleaning, loosened some gunk and that blocked a jet. I will take the left hand carb off again when I get time.
A ripped o ring may let air in, weaken the the mixture and stop the adjustment screw doing anything
I've read its possible to put slides in back to front so make sure they are correct with the idle screw cut out lining up with idle screw
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: Which intake rubbers for xo?
« Last post by betty foRD on October 26, 2020, 11:07:10 PM »
The biggest benefit is for people who don’t know how to balance carbs ...
They also dramatically effect the carbs setup so on a 400c I strongly suggest you don’t mess with it ..a standard 400c is a sweet engine.
If you do want to try, then use 29L/31k carbs and 29L reed block rubbers...
Restorations Diary / Re: My DS7 Journey
« Last post by Tjtalan on October 26, 2020, 11:04:13 PM »

Thanks for all of the help guys, I think I am going for the RD400 transmission. If I’m doing it, I might as well do it once.

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