YCS CS3B build (this 'n' that)

[Foy(notFox)]

16284.2     according to the speedo I got when I bought the "bike".



It was actually just an engine, the clocks, a badly re-covered seat, rear shocks, sidepanel & the fuel and oil tanks.

[Concorde7]

 

It was actually just an engine, the clock a badly re-covered seat, rear shocks, sidepanel & the fuel and oil tanks.

Wow that"s not much of a starting point to build your bike, and you"ve obtained all the rest of the parts, many at bargain prices, all credit to you.



Your attention to detail is something else.

Not far to go now     Keep up the good work.

[Foy(notFox)]

Cheers Concorde.



As far as i know there is nothing missing now apart from rear brake pedal spring and there are 2 on Ebay. I"m banned from buying from one seller as mentioned a while back (because I thought her shipping was too high) and the other one is ?10 plus shipping so I"ll hold out a bit longer.



The quest goes on for cables for all 4 of my Yamahas in different lengths. I have just emailed a company in Japan about a short throttle cable for my AS3 after googling for hours. Think I need a break    

[Foy(notFox)]

Yesterday I mentioned something about a 174/193 battery box problem...



I got my NOS frame re-painted about 20 years ago. Not powder coated tho. It was stove enamelled as I wanted to try that and powder coating.



I eventually gave up trying to find the rest of the cycle parts NOS and got all the black bits 2nd hand and had them stove enamelled along with the frame if memeory serves me well.



It was done by Long Eaton Stove Enamellers I think and it is nice. i think I knew at the time that there was something up with the battery box but just got it painted anyway. The bottom where the battery sits had rusted away completely and the previous owner had screwed a strip of metal across it so I figured I"d do the same and it has sat like that ever since,



Being a fusy bugger I have a particular liking for getting weird bits right, like wiring and oil hoses, and have actually bought 2nd hand battry wires from the USA in order to have the right bit rather than cobble one together with modern fittings.



Although I have most of the battery area wiring I wasn"t sure how it should be routed and so when I saw someone in the USA selling a battery box with all the wiring still attached I had to buy it to get more wiring and a good reference source plus a good used battry box. The seller agreed to $20 for the sale plus $20 shipping which is about ?13 for each.



I paid him then he emailed me a bit later to say it would be a bit more for shipping (another $12/?9.50) but could keep costs down by just sending the wiring. My immediate thought was "he"s going to dismantle it all and I will lose the purpose of buying it!"



Anyway it all arrived and sure enough he had dismantled and re-asssembled it and the black negative wire and part of the fuse assembly didn"t come with it  



I"m not going to hassle someone to send me a bit of wire across the Atlantic however so just let it go.



The parts he sold were actually from a YCS1 and the box does differ slightly from the CS3 part.





stove enamelled CS3 battery box/tool tray on LHS 193-21170-00. YCS1 equivalent on RHS 174-21170-00







only major difference is absence of little tangs on 193 part for flasher unit







on later part (LHS) the unit is held on with a single screw







bottom of battery area is missing on re-painted part













 



The Ebay purchase is now in rust stripping fluid to prepare for re-painting. Small dilema is should I just use as is and get an earlier type flasher unit or should I separate the tool tray area from the CS3 part and weld it onto the good battery box unit from the YCS1 part.



I now have two red battery positive/fuse holder leads both from YCS1s but the same part was used on the CS3. The latest one is a good bit longer and makes me wonder how the previous one i bought would reach the battery terminal comfortably. Turns out I also have a black postive lead on the bike already - so the one missing from USA purchase not so bad - although would have been nice to get it as mine has had the inevitable "repair" to the battery terminal end.



Lastly, the earlier box has a wider clip (spot welded to the tool tray area) for the fuse holder and as you can see in the pics the fuse holder is pretty wide (takes fuse plus 2 spares I think). The later 193 part has a smaller clip so must"ve took a different fuse holder.



The above pictures cam out a bit dark altho I used my camera with flash so just for the hell of it I"ll add these pictures of the 174 part under bright sunlight taken a couple of weeks ago when the part arrived



 





this pic shows again the "tangs" on top of tool tray for holding the earlier type of flasher unit









visible at the rear is the wide "clip" for the earlier fuse holder

[Foy(notFox)]

Back on the 6th June I posted about the oil tank re-spray. At that point it had been stripped, and etch primed. It has now had my customary 3 coats of grey celly primer then 3 coats of Metalflake white acrylic groundcoat then masked up to create the white stripes followed by approx 3 coats of Metalflake silver groundcoat to act as the base for the candy then finally some topcoat.....



I"ll deal with the candy topcoat issues later but meantime the pics should show what was involved.





after the Glasurit etch primer detailed in earlier post a few coats of Upol P88 cellulose primer were applied. front....





....and rear





to prove originals panels were white with candy on top (rather than candy with white stripes on top) I sanded some of the colour coat away to show silver basecoat underneath





and again in sunlight







further sanding reveals white under the silver





same on rear although much less paint applied. very little purple







white acrylic groundcoat applied all over













a few days later out in sunlight













measurements from an original panel show stripes 5mm wide







with 6mm gap in between













so tape applied 4cm from top of tank per original to make 5mm stripe







followed by 6mm gap. checked here....







.....and further along







pretty clsoe I reckon. NB one is a sidepanel and other is oil tank but stripes should be same







back indoors for a 2-3 light coats of silver groundcoat





Anyway, that"s all just now because the application of the Oval Candyapple toner Maroon C6 didn"t quite go the plan but I reckon it is saveable so will post once that is sorted

[Foy(notFox)]

Back in the 28th June post I was talking about the newly purchased 174 battery box versus my original 193 one which is correct for the CS3 whilst the other is for the YCS1 although they are almost identical. I couldn"t decide whether to use the 174 as is or make it into a 193 by swappping some of brackets around.



Well, I came across a NOS flasher relay for the 174 box at a good price so decided to buy that, re-paint the 174 box and use that. I can still make it "correct" some time in the future but at least this way I have something to use just now.



Only downside is that the tiny item cost $13 dollars to send (the thing was only $9.99) as the seller sent it in a USPS Priority Mail International Flat Rate Box which can be used, for same cost, up to 4lbs in weight!!



I reckon the part only weighs about 1 ounce as it is the same weight as this MacDonalds sauce pot which is 25g    



If he"d posted it USPS First Class Mail International instead would have only been about $3 but some sellers will not use this service for various reasons that I can"t be bothered typing just now.



The 174 box went into the customary rust cleaning tub and, as I didn"t feel it was worth sending one part away to be stove enamelled (like the rest of the cycle parts were back in the early 90s), I"m painting it myself with enamel paint.



As mentioned some time ago in my RD250C rebuild thread I once did some parts in enamel and used a primer which seemed fantastic but cannot be found anymore. The primer I used on this toolbox has that distinctive chalky smell of enamel primer but its just not the same. Its coming out very thin. Am now on third coat. It is made by International and called Anti Rust Primer but the stuff I have been trying to locate for years was by Weldtite.







the elusive Weldtite enamel primer







made by C B Baggs London









present day equivalent?









instructions don"t tell you you will need 5 coats to get coverage









174 toolbox/battery tray after rust stripping and coat of International Anti Rust primer. 2 tangs on top of tooltray are for flasher unit      







newly purchased flasher unit correct for this box. rubber strip suspends the unit between the tangs on box







weighing no more than this sauce pot it cost $13 to ship from USA in a box the size of a video cassette



In the post of 29th June I mentioned the colour coat stage of the oil tank didn"t go quite right. After a long search I had tracked down some paint which I thought would be a good match for Metallic Purple (34). The difference with this stuff from the Metalflake brand candy paints that I"d used before was that it didn"t require thining but came out the gun a bit stringy. I didn"t want to put any thinners into it as I"m not sure if it is celly or acrylic paint but had to put some in. It is very opaque too so will take loads of coats to build up any depth of colour and I got runs all over the place so have left it to settle and last week tried to polish out some of the lumps and runs. Whilst doing this I gave it a wipe with panel wipe which surprisingly actually softened the paint and some ares could be wiped away without affecting the silver nase underneath which was a relief.







from UK seller on Ebay a range that mirrors the Metalflake brand Candy Apple colours







Oval brand "Candyapple Toner" is highly translucent which is nice but had problems applying it





a few runs







several more coats needed so colour should even out. mucky blob on bottom corner rubbed out using panel wipe





Gonna try and apply a bit more soon. If it doesn"t work will bite the bullet and buy some from RS paints as they do Popsicle Purple (R9) which is apparently same as my colour altho I"m not convinced. However I recently noticed that the CS3B parts list shows the part no. for the headlamp bowl was superceeded to the Popsicle Purple part no. 237-84330-60-R9 from the original no. 237-84330-60-34 so Yamaha must have reckoned they were the same or as good as.

[Foy(notFox)]

Shame on me.....have I really not posted on this thread since summer!?



Well, there has been a little progress in the background but the main reason for the hiatus on the CS3 (and the AS3, RD125, RD250 & Honda SS50K1) is that most of September, October & November were spent patching up my Suzuki Swift daily runaround to get it thru the MoT which I then gave up on as the body was basically "gone".





an example of the state of the body on the Swift







off to the crusher after nearly 5 years free motoring





Such a waste of man hours    but I now have a new runaround....a 1981 Vauxhall Royale 2.8 auto saloon  







Royale outside the barn







my favourite part of the Royale....the velour interior





December was a waste of time as I couldnt get to the barn most nights cos of snow etc and the never ending Christmas/New Year festivities which brings us to January and I"m back at the barn but mainly working on my Daimler http://jaguar-daimler-vdp-66.blogspot.com/2011/01/take-brake.html as buying the Royale has made me realise all I really want/need in my life is a big old car    





I will finish the bikes tho as I made so much progress on them last year.



The CS3 needs virtually no parts now but I have been trying to get a brake pedal spring for some time and just couldn"t justify paying more than ?10 for one and I fianlly got one from a dealer who agreed to ship USPS First Class Mail International for $3.80 rather than the listed shipping of $13.45 http://www.usps.com/prices/welcome.htm



So I got the spring today and inevitably it was "overpackaged". You could get about 15 of them in this Jiffy bag and I might not have got it at all as the envelope was ripped somewhere between California and East Kilbride.





last piece of the jigsaw?



Ialso got, completely free, from another CS3 builder on the forum a NOS CS3 seatcover!!! He wasn"t going to use it as the YAMAHA logo on back is squint but I have 4 of these seats so it will go to good use. I sort of reciprocated this generosity by sending another member an RD200 part, that I couldn"t use, gratis.





a rare item. NOS CS3 seat cover





even has original part no. tag







the lop sided logo





Lastly I have a pic of a NOS 200 emblem bought a few months back. I already have one of these but as you may know I have a set of UK spec Marine Blue tinware and a set of USA spec Metallic Purple so prob best to have two emblems rather than swap them back and forward.





NOS 200 emblem. not cheap but bike doesn"t look right if its not there

[Foy(notFox)]

ok....its now June and very little done on the bike. Spent most of March repairing crazy corrosion on the Royale to get it thru MoT and April and May were taken up repairing the front wing which was held together with tape but the other night I got round to fitting a small part I"ve had for a while and also offering up a new throttle cable I bought.



I don"t believe the silver/grey sheathed cable is correct for the CS3B but the one I have on the bike was bought 2nd hand from USA and was on a CS3B and fits the  high bars but I believe it is a 337 part from the CS5 I"ll go into more detail later about all this but will stick a few pics up meantime.  





"silver" throttle cable is attached to carb slides etc so not easy to remove. new black 237 cable offered up to check length







tie wrapped here







threaded along next to silver one







shot from below you may be able to see how end of black cable compares to position of same part on silver one  







and again







and once more





The part I bought was advertised as 237-26311-00 and was not a Yamaha part but in the pic you could see that part no stamped on the back so I was happy to take a chance on it. The seller then sent it in the bag but without the card top with the number on it so I can"t say for 100% certain I got the pictured part. He also wanted $33 shipping but when asked agreed to ship it for $19 which is till ridiculous for such a light part but it can"t really be avoided.



The part no. should deliver a cable for STD handlebars which were the normal fitment on the UK CS2/CS3s so it puzzled me that a USA dealer would have this part as I believe all the CS3 models there came with high bars and I don"t think they got the CS2.



I expected the cable to be shorter than the one I have on my high bars but it appears to be almost same length which is a bit confusing.



Next item was the rubber miunting for the tail lamp bracket to the mudguard. I"ve been searching for ages for the correct 164 part with no luck and ended up buying this 248 part as it looked exactly the same. However the pictures will show that it is significantly different in profile to the old perished one. I hadn"t considered this. It means the bracket will sit slightly differently on the mudguard but it doesn"t look too bad.





248 mounting rubber ready to be fitted at correct 164 one seems impossible to find







at first sight only visual difference is that 248 part has got rubber in centre where 164 is like skeleton type









round locating lugs look same as other part









top edges don"t show much difference in profile









large difference in thickness on other side tho









difference is again pretty clear when old part shown behind new imposter in situ







slight problem with new thicker rubber is that original bolts are now a bit shy







hard to tell from this shot if incorrect 248 base has drastically altered the angle of the light bracket

   

[Foy(notFox)]

ok....as per the usual format of the recent posts on this thread I have "some small parts coupled with a report on P&P".



The first part is the "loom" for the speedo bulb 235-83536-21 SOCKET, meter..... . I"ve spent an innordinate amount of time checking the manuals, cross referencing with other models and trawling Ebay for the right part here. As mentioned several times before I feel the best way to get the right part is buy a second hand part as it will 9 times out of 10 be correct. When you buy NOS it can be a superceeded part or arrive without a tag and you"re not really sure.



Some time ago I got the loom for the multi-bulb tachometer from a guy breaking a CS3 in America but he didn"t have the speedo one. A few weeks ago I came home drunk and trawled Ebay till the early hours looking for the bulb holders for both the speedo & tacho and emailed a guy in the USA who was selling a the clocks and asked him if he"d pull the bulb holders of and sell separatley.



I woke up the next morning to remember I already had the tacho ones   . Luckily the guy wasn"t keen to sell them so I finally took the plunge and just bought a NOS speedo one I"d had on my watch list for months!!



It arrived today, slightly overpacked, and the seller used USPS First Class Mail International (I"ll call it FCMI for short) costing $3.66/?2.44  . The part was $19.99/?12.22 which is ok I suppose.







speedo bulb holder 235-83536-21 all the way from USA





The second part is the rubber damper for the speedo 214-83523-00 DAMPER..... which I bought a while ago and I"m still amazed at how a part, which is almost undamagable, needs so much packing. It also cost twice what the other part did to post $7.81/?6.11 The seller originally had it listed under USPS Priority Mail International (we can abbreviate it to PMI)and I didn"t keep a note of how much that was (more than $20 I think) but I have found that, if you ask, many sellers will agree to FCMI and the cost drops - big time. This seller did this but used a Small Flat Rate Box which is only available for PMI as far as their website shows. You can"t mix the two services so he"s ended up paying for the weight of the empty box really.



It was still cheaper than the original price but not as cheap as the seller who didn"t use a USPS box.







speedo damper 214-83523-00 arrives wrapped in large sheet of paper inside 2 plastic bags and carboard box. overkill?



The 3rd part is the STD CS2E/CS3E throttle cable 237-26311-00 mentioned in the previous post. The seller originally quoted $33.55 for shipping but then shipped in a flate rate envelope quoting $19.95 for it but the actual cost was only $13.55. I still saved nearly $20 by asking tho. Strangely the slip on the envelope shows that the item weighs 32oz - 2lbs but I very much doubt the throttle cable would weigh that much. The envelope can be used for up to 4lbs so why would fabricate a weight....



 



USPS Priority Mail International Flat Rate Envelope that cable arrived in apparently weighing in at 2lbs...same as a bag of sugar







In fairness to the sellers they prefer to use Priority Mail International as there is a tracking system on this so they have some re-course if things go missing - or people claim they go missing. First Class Mail International (let"s abbreviate it to FCMI) doesn"t have this so some sellers won"t use it as they may have been stung in the past. I have received loads of items by FCMI and never had a problem.



As for using a flat rate box or flat rate envelope again you can"t really fault the seller as it speeds up the weighing/packing/pricing process as its "one size fits all". You can send up to 4lbs in them and price doesn"t alter. Its currently $13.95. You can get bigger boxes that take up to 20 lbs.





flate rate box & envelope clearly marked Priority Mail and warning on side of box that they can only be used for that service  



 

[Foy(notFox)]

Got a PM from a member today asking if I managed to get a match for Marine Blue. He must"ve seen a post from some time ago as I haven"t mentioned it recently and did my "Marine Blue" paintjob some time ago but have never detailed it on this thread.



For the time being here are a few pics of my efforts using highly expensive RS Paints" candy topcoat on top of my own materials for primer, silver base etc.



You can perhaps see from the pics how the colour varies depending on the light (flash) and also that the headlamp bucket is quite a bit darker. The paint they sent is pre thinned and I felt it was a bit thick for candy as the difference between two light coats on the side panels to 3 light coats on the bowl has made a big difference.

























 

[Concorde7]

Nice work  



You must be pretty close to finishing, can"t wait to see your completed CS3B.

[Foy(notFox)]

Thanks Concorde. Yeah, there"s not much to do but at the rate I"m working on it, it could be a while  



Last night I turned my attention back to the YCS1 battery box/airbox I was painting....last July  



It had previously had a couple of coats of primer but over the winter picked up all sorts of dirt and mould so I hid it away under some stuff. I was using enamel primer on my AS3 seatbase last night however and next minute I had the YCS component out, rubbed down and re-primed.



My quest just now is assembling all 12(?) brake/throttle/clutch cable options so I can chose between flat, medium and high bars. There should only be 9 cables logically but the parts lists throw up another 2 or 3 options. I cover this one day.



I"m also wondering whether to make it a CS3B or a unique Metallic Purple YCS3E. Per The YCS3E parts list this was an option but I have my doubts as to whether or not such a machine was ever ordered by a customer.







this box is actually off a YCS1 but only differs from CS3 part in that the flasher unit mountings are not the same







rubbed down and waiting for final(?) coat of primer

[Foy(notFox)]

 if you are fainthearted or squeamish or easily depressed it might be worth skipping this entry  



This is a tale of 4 CS3 seats.

• #1 I call the Liverpool Seat as it is the one I got (with the remains of the bike back in 1988) from a guy in Liverpool. It had bee recovered in a sort of thick rubbery vinyl at some time, pretty close to the original design from what I remember, but I cut it off and threw it away as it was non original and I got the seat base stove enamelled and kept the foam which is a bit dry and crumbly round the edges
• #2 I call the D H*****m Seat after the guy I bought it off. He had at least 3 CS3s and after searching for years for parts in the UK I thought I found a good source but all I managed to get from him was this seat for ?70
• #3 is the Ardon Seat. I swapped a CS5 seat I"d bought from Ebay USA for it from a guy who"d also bought a seat from the USA but his was a CS3 when he had a CS5 and I was in the reverse situation. Years later, when I joined this forum, I realised it was Ardon - who appears to have since been banned
• #4 I call the TC Seat as I sent the cover from it to a guy in Thailand in 2006 to make a replica cover and his name was Lim Tiam Chuan but he called himself TC. This was another seat bought fron someone in the UK but I don"t remember much about it

L-R: TC seat, Ardon Seat, D H*****m Seat & Liverpool Seat







and again. #4 looks ok but new cover was just put on loosely for pics to send to guy who made cover







reverse order. #1 has been sitting like this for over 20 years







undersides. ironically #1 which looks worst from above has shiniest base and #4 with new cover has worst base







RHS #2 & #3 have never been dismantled. #2 has piece missing from stainless steel trim whilst #3 has big hole in cover







LHS #2 has screw holding front of trim in place but trim is snapped on other side anyway







Razzle shot  







#2 & #3 cleaned up look ok here. #3 has typically faded top as came from sunny USA. no such problems with UK #2







safe to unscrew seat strap retaining bolt on #3 from sunnier climes







probably not a good idea on #2 as head will no dount snap of as soggy foam above other end of thread will have it encrusted with rust







#4 shows what can happen if you do try to remove bolt





More pics later.

[Motty]

 

   shows what can happen if you do try to remove bolt

Oh dear, a lot of rust down there, is it just surface rust or more serious?

[Foy(notFox)]

Hi Motty.  #3 is fine. I think I"ll be able to use that without doing any repairs. Even the spikes on the seat pan are strong and clean.



I"ll repair the other 3 too tho as none of them are as bad as the one on my RD250C was and that is fixed.



I have one for my RD125 that is probably past saving but maybe not  





of the 10 motorcycle seats I own, this 1973 RD125 base is the worst