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Hi Guys,

I have a US import RD350B in Portuguese Orange, any idea where I can get a colour match for some touch up paint?
I think that requires a base, color, and clearcoat. lists them, but I would email to make sure.

afaik Portuguese Orange was a solid colour, not a candy so you only really need a single-stage. I have chemically stripped  the paint from 1973 & 1974 RD125 sidepanels and only the 74 had clearcoat as it was a metallic. The 73 was candy and there's no real need for clear over candy. It's only really metallics that need clear. However some 'modern' basecoats are not glossy from gun so they use clear over them too.

I'd put money on the Portuguese Orange  not having any clear on it from factory. Rub it with T-Cut on a cloth and see if you get colour
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: New owner needs help with points cleaning.
« Last post by Whitey on December 08, 2022, 10:54:58 PM »
Thanks, I did my timing first time round on the bench with the engine out, but now it’s in and wired up, I’ll check it with this method

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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: Wheel builders
« Last post by Tealman on December 08, 2022, 10:51:42 PM »
Big thumbs up to Mike at Wheel Building UK - collected my wheels a few days ago and I'm very, very happy with the work he's done :) :)
Restorations Diary / Re: New resto - 79 RD400 Daytona Special
« Last post by Hammer 663s on December 08, 2022, 09:57:31 PM »
A few shots of recent progress. She's starting to go back together! Swingarm and shocks installed, battery box in, tank ready for repair/repaint, head all cleaned up and polished. Once the cerakote work is done I'll get the front end on her. Still need to finish stripping and polishing the fork lowers - what a drudge of a job that one is!

Aircooled RD Tech Help 200cc and Below / Re: Battery eliminator?
« Last post by tore on December 08, 2022, 09:04:54 PM »
Yes indeed. I have this setup on all magneto generators.

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Aircooled RD Tech Help 200cc and Below / Re: Battery eliminator?
« Last post by Bluehaze on December 08, 2022, 08:38:20 PM »
Get a 15v zener diode and a lithium battery.

Thanks Tore, but I think I'll stick to 6 volts.
If you have use a lithium battery there is a built-in circuit that has a max voltage. You just need to have a zener to catch voltage spikes, not as a voltage regulator. Usually around 15v, even on a 6v battery. Manual on the battery will tell what is max.

There's an idea. I hadn't thought of using a zener this way. Is it known to work?
Take both plugs out..

Put a small 12v bulb, like a neutral or speedo/tacho illumination bulb across the points, ignition on, kill switch to run. Turn the engine slowly over one revolution, The bulb should light up when the points open, and go off when closed, about half a turn on and half a turn off.

Do this with both sets of points.

If this works the points have a 12v feed through the coil primary and the points are opening and closing correctly.

It does not test the capacitor (condenser) or the high tension secondary, plugs, or plug caps, in any way.
Just a thought, any reason why this wouldn’t work using a tester set to 12v across the points?

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This method will work with a 12v tester just as well.

It does put a bit of current through the connectors and is a method that requires almost no equipment.

I always use it when I do my timing with a dial gauge. You can see the dial gauge needle move slowly and see the bulb illuminate up without taking your eye off the gauge.
Technically Gr8uncleal is right. From Yamaha sales talk the DX meant Disc Brake. This applied to all their bikes of that era. Its a misconception that DX = Coffin tank models. It applies to Round tank models as well. Give Gr8uncleal a chance and he will try to help if he can  ;)

Yes that picture is the bike i have!
I've just read through my various manuals and the round tank models with the disc brakes had different part numbers for the coffin tanked bikes, contrary to my initial thoughts. However, for the seals and springs, the part numbers for the RD200 drum and disc brake 1975 models are the same. It is likely, therefore, that the RD125 disc brake model used the same seals and springs as the drum brake model. The 125 bikes don't have the same part numbers as the 200s.

The only way to be absolutely certain is to get hold of a parts list for your bike. There happens to be one for sale in the UK at the moment and I have attached a link to this - I would recommend that you buy this, both for what you need now and future reference. Note the two models referred to on the cover!  ;)

As an aside, let me know if you come across a tank shown in the photo that Mike posted, as I'd rather like one (has to be same colour and graphics)!  ;) ;) ;)
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