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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / 400c speedo trip knob
« Last post by BAZZER4 on Today at 09:41:33 PM »
Does anyone know of a way to remove trip meter knob on speedo safely please . Am thinking it’s supposed to just pull out to allow speedo to be removed from rubber . Managed to ease it out of cup with some lube but it doesn’t want to go back in without a proper fight .
That's a great hack for a test on the rotor! Do I need a puller for the rotor removal or just jam a piece of wood in the metal to keep it from spinning?

Neither, you just do it with the motor stationary and ignition turned off - the battery in the tester provides the power needed for the resistance test. My insulating of the shafts of the nails was basically belt and braces in case I momentarily turned the ignition on with them in situ!  :o :D
You can also measure between the two regulator wires. If you get acceptable values you are good. Otherwise you need to remove the brushes and measure direct on the rotor.

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That's a great hack for a test on the rotor! Do I need a puller for the rotor removal or just jam a piece of wood in the metal to keep it from spinning?
Not as such, but if it's any good to you (or any other members who are perhaps nearer to me in Essex) i have one of these surplus to requirements with a duff ram which could be fixed with a £10 bottle jack and a bit of know-how. Bought it off eBay and some time later when it was too late to return, realised the jack was faulty, slung it in the shed in disgust and bought a Clarke one like I should have done in the first place .free to good home.
5ohms are too much in a wire. Copper wires do age so it is not a bad idea to replace the cable harnesses when 30+ years.

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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: Synchronising Carb Slides
« Last post by 5port on Today at 10:20:30 AM »

I’ll re-fit the cable going right back to the beginning and set up the carb ends before fitting either of the other ends and work back from there… I’ll repot back.

I think that with this issue you are best to connect it up with the carbs off the bike at one side on a small table/stand and the cable in the air.  This allows you to see exactly how the slides are positioned and that they fully raise and lower.  You can also check if there is a problem with range of movement in the various sections of cable.  You can do this with the oil pump cable connected as well.
As far as the Throttle tube goes, I recently had one that would only give about 23mm of cable travel, that left the slides either too far down or too far up, you need at least 28mm of cable travel, more like 30mm minimum to give a tad of adjustment and free play!
Not absolutely certain of that Throttle tube id, but I thought it was OE, probably 1GU, the superceeded part.  Anyway, the cure for that was to file back the plastic stop bit 10mm, and that gave enough cable travel between the closed stop and the full throttle stop of the tube in its twistgrip casting.
You should be able to find where your problem is by doing the carbs off and connecting it all up.

Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / RD250D black paint spec
« Last post by pamsman on Today at 10:19:13 AM »
Hi I am restoring a RD250D, can anyone tell me what black paint I should use for H/light shell, speedo- tacho bodies, H/light ears and alloy wheels.
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: r5 oil injection
« Last post by [Arrow] on Today at 10:13:14 AM »
Yes, if someone close to home can sort it for you, all the better.

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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: RD350 Radjoot cylinders.
« Last post by betty foRD on Today at 09:54:36 AM »
The mess about factor and how much you want to mess about is a very good point. I’ve used the latest barrels to good effect and as I recall it was only the needle clip positions that ultimately seemed to benefit from being different. But I had started with safe extra fuel and worked my way back. Who knows how repeatable that is.
RDs are fairly hands on at the best of times, particularly if you are nursing a number if age related aliments! The bike I mean … so unless you or whoever is doing the work are able to work from first principles, then having a very set of defined factory defaults makes getting to a useable starting point very easy.

Actually this type of discussion is quite difficult to close with simple conclusions once you are in the ‘non standard’ territory. All the variables of why you are intending to do something and expectations for the outcome are so subjective in the non standard world.

On the other hand. If a bike is put back to 100% standard settings then it’s much easier for remote assistance from the forum to identify and sort a snag list.

In this particular case, what I would do personally and what I suggest a novice owner does are probably opposites. I’d attempt to dial it in , letting the engine and bike ‘talk to me’ and along the way diagnose any underling other issues. Recommendation  for a novice owner would be to go back to standard.

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