YCS CS3B build (337 fork-bottoms V 174)

[Foy(notFox)]

Following on from the last installment I now have 3 seat bases stripped of rust, with the best one painted and about 100 pictures of them all. I am keeping track of which seat is which but the pictures are quite repetative and not much to look at anyway.....so I"m not sure how much detail to go into



I basically focused on stripping seats #2 & #3 as follows:-





seat #3 the Ardon Seat being stripped. 1st step after removing one or both end of the strap is to remove the stainless trim strip. there are 6 pins with little internally toothed clips on them. clips can take forever to pull off the pins. best thing to do is bend the teeth upwards and the clips fall off but can be flattened back out and re-used    









once strap and trim are off you can remove cover and will see something like this. rust, a plastic membrane, crumbly foam. this seat not too bad. am pretty sure it came from USA  







most seats don"t have any spikes or solid metal left at rear end either. CS3 seat unusual in that it has a cord sewn inside edge of cover which draws everthing tight







#2 with trim strip and one end of strap removed shows much the same as #3 but with a lot more rust than #3. pretty sure this seat is a UK original therefore would have been a sponge, effectively







Bridgestone parts on a Yamaha!! all the seats foams apart from #1 (Liverpool Seat) have blue stamp on them which strangely says "Bridgestone" on it. This company also made motorbikes in the 70s as well as tyres so pehaps they led the field in seat foams too









#2 D H*****m seat lookd ok outside but foam inside reduced to crumbs in places







#3 cover in much same condition as #2 apart fom cracks under quilting. wonder if this has anything to do with sun baked top surface







#3 foam again showing Bridgestone stamp





#4 TC seat foam. this seat was dismantled a long time ago and plastic membrane removed so stamp is more legible in photo. wonder what numbers mean







#2 seat has been sitting on bike for some time but orange dust dropping down onto oil tank caused by this large crusty area of foam







"Eversoft"? on #3 foam





slightly different markings on #2 "BS" for Bridgestone I guess





to be continued

[Foy(notFox)]

Altho I"ve not yet finished the post about the seats am going to jump to another small job in hand.



Some time ago I re-painted the oil tank which is the only part of the tinware which is not NOS. I"m quite happy with the colour match and result apart from a big flaw where there is no candy colour and the silver base is showing through surrounded by a concentrated ring of candy.



I"ve found that this "candy apple toner" I bought behaves a little differently to any other paint I"ve used and despite being left for a year it still seems "live" and my attempts at polishing out the blemish weren"t too successfull. I am tempted just to put it on as is.



There are very few things left to do.



I should really be sending the NOS silencers away now for re-chroming - as most chromers won"t want to touch the job after they are full of carbon - and getting to work on starting the engine and getting some tyres and we"re mobile   







unsightly blob occurred when using this brand of candy paint for first time (Oval). behaved differently to Metalflake brand candy apple acrylic lacquers used on other jobs







colour match to NOS tank not exact but passable



I have also painted one of the seat bases (#3). I used a aerosol etch primer as I"ve run out of my proper stuff but I don"t trust it as it looks the same as normal primer to me so I couldn"t really tell the differencve when I put some coats of celly grey primer on top. This was followed by a couple of coats of black celly which didn"t come out very glossy despite it being warmest time of year





Upol etch primer not usual colour for etch primer. looks like normal grey celly primer to me but am medically colour blind so what do I know







just need to repair a foam and fit one of two new covers I have and we"re sorted







 

[Foy(notFox)]

Not a huge amount of progress being made but..... I have the 3 rusty seat bases painted. It might seem a bit strange to have chosen a different paint system on each one but the logic is that it might be a good test of which sytem is best. Which one will rust first? Possibly none of them as the bike is always indoors but I could always leave them outside for 3 years and see what the results are  





L-R: #4 TC seat in Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator paint; #3 Ardon seat after Upol etch primer followed by several coats of Upol celly primer and proprietary black celly topcoats; #2 D H*****m seat in enamel primer





 

[Foy(notFox)]

I may have mentioned before that I was not sure whether to have UK spec shrouded front forks or keep the rubber gaitored USA spec set up. Problem was I only had one of the chrome sleeved outer nuts for the shrouded set up.



I have been looking for one for ages then someone on here provided a link to a dealer in the USA who has lots of parts and I found they have several f these. I was about to take the plunge and buy a few parts from the dealer when, out the blue, a forum member offered me one  



I"m still a bit confused about the part number as it appears in the YCS1 parts list as 174-23127-00 then changes to 193-23150-00 in the later print of the YCS1 book then goes to 193-23127-00 in the CS2E parts list and finally on the CS3B & CS3C it appears as 193-23150-40. The part on the CS3B & CS3C is different tho as it is not shrouded forks so the 40 suffix must be the significant part in the part number. Weird.







front fork outer nut/oil seal holder for UK spec shrouded CS3E







Also. Back on 24th May 2010 I was going on about the little ferrule which goes on the end of the clutch cable and has no known part number. Well I stumbled across some for sale in Canada and would normally take the plunge to buy them but I previously tried to buy a YCS1 parts list of the seller some time ago and the shipping charge was going to be between $92 & $120    then the guy arranged for it to be sent by a Canada Post for $30 who were on strike and once they came off it would be a 4 week shipping time so I went with that then he contacted me to say he couldn"t find the book!  



I don"t think I could face all that again to get the little fitting. Maybe some other time. Ironically I only wanted the book to solve the parts number riddle with the fork part which I now have.



The part no. for the fitting is 164-26363-00

[Foy(notFox)]

Following on from my last post about a single fork part...I now have another single fork part  



As mentioned before I can either build, a UK spec, shrouded front fork or a, USA type, rubber gaitored one. Being a contrary character I"ve always fancied building the UK type but in the USA colour. That might sound like a hybrid but, if the UK CS3E parts list is to be believed, the shrouded fork parts were available in Metallic Purple (34) as well as the normal UK Marine Blue (75) although I always had my doubts about this as I"ve never seen one.



Anyway browsing Ebay one night I came across a seller in South Africa who had one NOS purple fork shroud so just had to but it, thinking it was probably the only one left in the world.....then a few days later a pair came up on Ebay for sale from a UK dealer. Uncanny.







noted as for YCS1/YCS1C not strictly correct as part was in different colours for YCS1 and scrambler C model had rubber-booted forks   







part 174-23123-00 .COVER, under fitted to lots of YCS models but in eight different colours. 34 is Metallic Purple







stunning colour. name is a bit confusing as it is actually a candy, like (nearly) all the other early Yamahas







this does have a tiny amount of metallic in the colour coat which the others candy colours Ihave seen don"t







inside view shows very simple construction which could perhaps be made at home if parts were really scarce







http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170717038233?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649



pair of same parts from Ebay



I paid ?14.19 for my single one including shipping from South Africa. The UK ones were ?24 for the pair before P&P so I"d have been better with them I guess.







And finally some tiny parts which could make a huge difference when the bike is running: My stator/armature was lacking several bits and I have gradually found new points, condensers, brushes etc but I"m sure at least one of the little springs for the brushes was missing so have been on the lookout for some for ages.



They do come up on Ebay regularly but some dealers want about $10 each for them so if you buy a full set and they only use USPS Priority Mail International it can get quite pricey. I finally found these at a good price and also a very reasonable shipping charge. ?10.62 all in  



There are actually 2 different types depending on the generator fitted (Hitachi or Mitsubishi) and these are the 141 type rather than 131







starter generator brush springs 141-81113-10 for Hitachi set up









no crazy shipping prices as seller used USPS First Class Mail International

[Motty]

That fork shroud has been kept in perfect conditions by the looks of it. Does it match your painted tin ware?

[Foy(notFox)]

Hi Motty

I"ve not offered it up yet but all my purple tinware is NOS apart from the oil tank which I nearly successfully re-created from a second hand one but I have actually came across a NOS one (I think) so may take the easy option and buy it when funds are available.

I"ve not seen a picture of it but am going to ask for one once I have the $100 or so to buy it.

[Foy(notFox)]

The CS3 (and my other old bikes) are always in the background while I stay fixed on my Daimler restoration but I"m always on the lookout for any of the last few pieces I need for the bikes and now have these two.

The tank badges are expensive but I found this one listed just as "old yamaha badge" so not many people would have found it. Was only £5 odd. Its in pretty good nick so I have 3 now. 2 on the purple tank a 1 for the blue. These badges are pretty precious but I"m not going to wrap it in cotton wool as the other two I have have actually deteriorated just sitting on the tank which has never been outside. Looks like they are a "service item" that would need replacing regularly   



NOS tank badge for £5. will it delaminate indoors like the others?


The second item, which I actually got a month or so ago, is yet another cable. As I"ve said before it is harder to get the short and medium length cables for the old bikes as all the stuff comes from Ebay in USA etc where most bikes had the high bars so I"m always scouring Ebay for the "UK"cables. To complicate matters further the Parts List shows another "11" suffix cable. I came across one and obviously had to buy it. The seller actually sent me a cable for a totally different bike in error but was good enough to send the correct one with no hassle. I did send him the other back. I"ve not compared this one yet against the other I"ve had but I"m guessing it will be the same length as the "10" suffix long cable but with some tiny design change.


another cable from the USA



what does the 11 suffix mean?

 

[Foy(notFox)]

Following on from the recent 2nd hand badge update I now have another.

I"ve never bought 2nd hand badges before as they are usually in poor condition but I stumbled across this one listed for the YR3 from a UK seller.

The rather cool chequered flag emblem was used on a lot of the Yamaha twins and the last NOS one I saw on Ebay went for £63 iirc. This was only £9 inc P&P so was a good buy and finishes off the sidepanel nicely I think   


193-21787-60 badge can be expensive NOS

[Foy(notFox)]

It's been a while as they say and there's nothing worse than a list of excuses so I'll keep it brief.

Bikes have been on back burner as I was focusing completely on my Daimler Double Six. Was on the home straight and found the engine has suddenly seized so I have nothing to work on so am back on the bikes.

I started with my Honda SS50 (UK 4 speed K1 model) and soon found myself tinkering with the CS3. This bike has been built from lots of NOS parts including the whole exhaust set up.

I'm not planning to re-chrome everything on it before firing it up but the silencers really should be done beforehand as chromers don't like doing dirty exhaust so they are getting sent away this week perhaps. I've put several pics up as I find the construction quite interesting:

My SS50 exhaust was in a bad state and I split it with a view to repairing it but thought this patchwork approach was madness then looking at the 'brand new' Yamaha silencers I could see that even from new they were made of several pieces welded together then smoothed of on the visible faces.

Anyway to the title of the post. I find that on any project there is one elusive part that never materialises not matter how many hours you spend online searching for it. With the CS3 it's the rubber that goes between the rear muddie and the numberplate/tail-light bracket.

I have been searching for one for years and was at the point of sending the perised one to a guy in USA who does repro rubbers so he could make new ones. Then, it popped up on Ebay in the UK the other night and arrived today so I'm quite pleased even though it cost me about £16 



yes it's a Honda but it's bringing me back to Yamaha     




exhausts are made of several parts



NOS exhausts could do with a re-chrome











rear of silencer clearly shows several pieces welded together on production line








even end-cap was welded rather than pressed



welds on visible face were ground smooth before plating



at last....




a 174/164 tail-light bracket rubber


The irony is that this rubber isn't actually correct for the bike I'm creating. This was fitted to the green CS3C scrambler model but the blue UK CS3E model had the big square bracket and the purple CS3B has a nice round unit. I went for this one because the muddies I have fit accept this set up.

NB I also marked up the front muddie recently for where the number plate holes should go. Measurements kindly given to me by Concorde7. Round about the same time I came across these NOS front number plate brackets (which I guess are pretty rare) and the seller also had an oil dipstick thing. There seem to be loads of these coming up on Ebay. I ronically the seller who I got these off was also the one that had the tail-light rubber.





front fender marked up the take number plate brackets



NOS front number plate brackets and dipstick
 

[Motty]

What has caused the Daimler Double Six engine seizure?

The NOS exhaust looks well manky, were they really like that in the seventies?

Have you asked what else that seller has squirrelled away?

[Foy(notFox)]

Hi Motty.

The engine seizure is a bit of a mystery and I'm getting lots of helpful advice from guys on a forum (RetroRides) about it. I've had the car 13 years and the engine tuned fine by hand about a year ago and now doesn't budge. I think I caused it by cleaning all the old oil of the block which meant in the cold/damp winter months it seized up.

As for the exhausts I got them about 15 years ago so they've mb picked up a little rust since then but I don't think the chrome was particularly great from the outset on these parts, especially in the hidden areas behind brackets etc.

The seller of the rubber piece and the little brackets is oldbikes-r-us on Ebay and he's got just short of 800 bits listed just now for all the big 4 manufacturers   

[Foy(notFox)]

A bit of an extravagance on NOS parts but, as you may know, chromers don't really like re-chroming silencers that have been used in anger because the deposits inside leach into their expensive chemicals so I figured best to get them done before the bike is fired up.

I've had stuff done by Niphos before and was impressed by their work and prices but it did come as a bit of a shock when they invoiced me for £295 for the silencers plus a pair of handlebars for my RD250C. I did get a rather large free T-shirt in the box tho.

Add to that the £30 for their courier plus the £17 it cost me to send them there by Parcel Force and its the best part of £350 

[Motty]

The new chrome does look good, hope you have tucked them away somewhere warm and dry

[Foy(notFox)]

Hi Motty. Yeah, they are in my flat but I'm not going to be too precious with them. I got some wheel rims done for my SS50 about 10 years ago and have been frightened to lace them up and put on the bike till it's going but I'm of the opinion now that you can't hide them from the elements forever.

They really belong out on the road and if they rust up again so be it.

Having said that I got the hubcaps on my Daimler done years ago and they have been down the barn and still look good as new. Likewise the fork bottoms for the CS3. They are on the bike and show no sign of rust on the new chrome.

I'm just precious about the SS50 rims as they are part of the original bike whereas this CS3 was built from parts. It's a clone