YCS CS3B build (very rusty wheels)

[Foy(notFox)]

On Tuesday as I said I was fitting some of the, hopefully last, batch of parts to be bought from USA.



When I first started building this machine on a NOS frame back in the late eighties my plan was to buy everything NOS as it came along but, especially pre Ebay, this was a slow task. I got NOS silencers, inner fork tubes, chain pullers, brake pedal, some cables, centre stand spring C-bracket, rear mudguard, clock wiring, front & rear hubs, swing arm spindle, rear hub torque arm and then nothing turned up for years.



I wanted to at least get the bike up on its wheels and have all the black painted frame parts so, back in the early 90"s, I conceeded I wouldn"t find these new and bought 2nd hand swing arm, centre stand, rear wheel with spindle etc, airbox, battery box etc and I think it was ?120 all in which was a lot of money to me then. Anyway a NOS rear wheel has never presented itself    and this is still on the bike along with its original rusty fittings.....



Anyway, last week I went round the rim with some Solvol and it came up fine but last night it was time to finally get rid of the second hand stand ins and put on the new odds and sods for the rear end.





old rear axle nut at forefront with second hand wheel etc behind









sprocket hub carrier nut rusty and showing chisel marks. previous owner mustn"t have had a 26mm socket  





other side. chrome on spindle fine. have never came across NOS rear axle





NOS parts. 3 at top bought from USA last week. 3 at bottom bought in UK nearly 20 years ago





NOS nuts from USA exactly the same. surprising as large one had superceeded part no and small one had different part no as came from UK bike and US part no. different





rear brake torque arm has never been connected up front to swing arm bracket  





view from rear with wheel etc removed. what parts required to fix arm?





this view shows different sized holes on either side of bracket





because shouldered bolt is fitted. only goes in from one side





new part fitted brake arm fine





but still something missing. parts book says 174-25374-00 SPRING, tension bar



now, as I mentioned before, the whole rear wheel assebmbly with spindles, bolts etc was purchased a long time ago from a UK seller and I have never really had reason to examine or compare the parts up to now. I have however found now that there is a mysterious part on the brake plate/tension bar stud.

The parts book advises there should be a nut, spring washer & plain washer here but my hub has a nut, a plain washer and another very thick "washer" (which looks uncannily like the "spring" for the other end in the parts list drawing). It"s more like a small collar than a washer as its so thick and has a convex face on one side.





NOS tension bar fitted to original UK brake plate on top of large mystery "washer"





same set up viewed from below mounted on bike



and again from rear





stud fittings removed from inspection - top sides.....





....and undersides





another view



I was wondering if maybe, all those years ago, the previous owner stuck the tension bar front fitting on the hub stud for safekeeping when he dismantled the bike but it seems to fit the brake plate stud perfectly so feels like it is proper to there. Then another surprise while taking the pictures....



The part number for the YCS range rear hub is 174-25311-00 and this ran right through to the RD200. I bought a NOS 174 rear hub years ago and remember thinking it looked slightly different to the hub I had. I was puzzled by this but put it down to "upates on the production tool" or "a new part that fits same purpose as old one so keeps same part no." but the other night I found the part number inside my old UK hub was 136-25311-02





original UK hub shows part number earlier than YCS range







NOS 174 hub doesn"t have full part no stamped and internal ribs are straighter



At this stage you might think "well obviously someone has sold you the wrong wheel" but its not as simple as that. The brake plate on the YCS range also has a 136 part no. 136-25321-01 and this was fitted right up the the RD200. 136 is the model number for the YA6 which dated right back to 1966   and my brake plate has the manufacturer date stamp on it but unfortunately the hub doesn"t have a stamp like this but due to the date it looks like I wasn"t sold a YA6 wheel, it seems that Yamaha were still using the 136 part right up to 1971 in some cases!   





ink stamp on brake plate shows date of 46.2.27 in Japanese which is 27.2.1971 in UK



That leads on nicely to another anomally. The NOS U shape centre stand spring link I bought years ago turns out to be a pretty different shape from the used one currently on the bike.......guess what its actually off/  yes a YA6    I found this out when looking at Ebay the other night and there is one pictured, exact same as mine, for YA6.





NOS centre stand spring link bought years ago not correct shape  





correct one has a longer nose and less tightly curved

[Foy(notFox)]

Phew....that was a bit of a marathon post on rear end fittings and still not finished so  will deal with remainder of the rear end in this new post before moving on the Wednesday/Thursday"s work on the clutch side housing/oil pump etc



Ok, so when I had the rim off last week I noticed that even with the axle nut tightened the brake plate would not sit inside the hub and overtightening the axle nut just made it impossible to turn the wheel    







brake plate not sitting right inside hub





another view



The answer soon presented itself however when I had everything dismatled to fit the new bits, take pics etc: the rim on my brake plate was dented so it was sitting on top of the corresponding lip on the hub and therefore "kicking out" at that area. I"m surprised I didn"t damage it further with the excessive tightening of the axle nut. I tried to tap it back but the damaged bit broke off. not the end of the world as NOS brake plates are available but would it really matter? I don"t know





damage to alloy lip between 7 & 8 o"clock





brake plate sits in fine now



Now that the brake plate problem was sorted I was left with a large gap between it and the axle collar/distance piece. I began to fear I had the wrong distance piece so took measurements so I could perhaps check with another YCS owner. I was also thinking that if the wheel was binding when I tightened it the previous night I would probabaly shear all the threads trying to take up this amount of slack!





big gap between brake plate and collar when axle nut hand tightened. collar appears to be exactly 4cm long in case anyone needs to know



but of course it was fine. the only reason it was binding before was because of the brake plate sitting against the hub instead of in it   This must mean that the swingarm is under a bit of compression when everything is tightened up.



Oh, and one last thing.... the NOS axle pullers bought 20 years ago.....both left hand side  





original left and right chain pullers with their corresponding nut and collar











two left feet and a YA6 stand link bought "unseen & in good faith" before the wonderful visual buying/selling experience of Ebay

[Motty]

Graham



Thanks again for the amazing amount of detail in your posts.



Has the NOS stuff been stored in a damp shed, as some of it shows a bit of corrosion?



Although I note it is in better condition than the original stuff on the bike  



Richard

[Foy(notFox)]

Thanks Richard  



The stuff was mostly stored in a lock up I rented from the council (one of about 6 lol) and although it stayed in one place I didn"t having moved address various times over the years.



There were parts I had not actually seen for nearly 20 years and I was amazed to find they actually still existed as my lock ups were broken into more than once and a few things went missing but all said and done things have panned out ok and I now have my 5 bikes and 3 classic cars all in one place in a 50" long barn I rent and I keep all the small bits in tubs at my flat in the old pram store/broom cupboards.

[Foy(notFox)]

As I collected the parts for this project I kept thinking I had everything then it would dawn on me a small piece was missing and it would take months of searching Ebay to find it at a reasonable price......well a good example was the gearchange shaft 174-18101-01:



The engine I have is part of the original pile of parts from Liverpool bought away back in 1988 and, like most UK parts, seemed to be knackered in many respects. The generator and shift shaft being a couple of examples. The splines on the shaft were all messed up and I don"t believe there is any way to fix this.



There were a few NOS shafts going for a reasonable price on Ebay listed as being for YCS1 through to RD200 and sometimes advertised as fitting all the models but the parts books show the YCS1 no. is 174-18101-00 and the RD200 174-18101-02 whilst the one I needed has the 01 suffix. A strange thing is the CS3 parts book (USA) shows the 02 suffix but the later CS5 book goes back to the 01 suffix. All very confusing.



I settled on a 2nd hand one hoping it would be the right part and the seller was also selling some other bits I needed. I got the shaft with all its spring & screws, front axle & nut and the U shaped centre stand linkage thing for ?26.18 including P&P.



If I remember correctly it was off a CS5 so could"ve ended up being wrong part but turned out to be exactly the same when compared agaist the old part   . The shaft itself was only $9.99 which, at that time - 2008, was about ?5 so if it had been wrong part wouldn"t have been a disaster and now everyone knows the CS5 part will fit the CS3         .



The gearchange is on the LHS of the bike but all the work to change it is on th RHS. Its quite straightforward but will involve draining the oil, removing the outer casing, locating a new gasket and removing the clutch. The most difficult part is removing the centre nut from the clutch basket without damaging anything. You can buy clutch holding tools but I made something up myself and it worked a treat.



As I loosened the nut  off a long time ago I don"t have any pics but will post some showing how to use the tool when it is re-assembled.





$9.99 worth of 2nd hand parts from USA. CS5 part turned out to be exact same as old one removed from CS3 engine





damaged splines on original part





LHS engine case needs to be removed. take care not the pull wiring which goes under small guard attached to casing. push wiring down from above as you pull casing away





only parts to remove on this side are circlip and washer on shaft, in front of oil seal





after RHS engine casing removed you can remove the 5 special screws holding clutch cover and withdraw all the plates etc which exposes this....





..... but centre nut cannot be removed without locking the alloy boss in middle





this tool used to hold boss still while breaker bar used on nut. fingers of the tool slot into grooves of the boss





once the primary gear is lifted off the gear change arm is accessible and just pulls out by hand

[Foy(notFox)]

Following on from the shift shaft change having both the engine cases off enabled a few more jobs to be done.



A tiny but vital detail on LHS and a couple on the right.



The outer clutch cable sits on top of the LHS casing supported by a threaded metal fitting and locknut and the inner reaches inside to pull on a small arm attached to a worm drive but the cluth cable needs a small barrel shaped ferrule to connect it to the lever. Problem is I cannot locate this part listed seperately in any of the Yamaha Twins parts lists I have. It isn"t shown on the CRANKCASE COVER page CLUTCH page or the HANDLE . WIRE page  



I have bought many NOS clutch cables and it isn"t on the end of those as there is no way of keeping it on so what do you do if you need one!?



Luckily I found one attached to a used cable I bought. It is quite worn but better than nothing and the cable and arm are now connected  



One last point is regarding the worm drive 241-16342-00 and its arm 241-16342-00 which are common to many of the small twins. At the factory they appear to peen over some metal from the inner end of worm drive to hold the arm on but to dismantle the mechanism (eg powder coating and you don"t want oil seal to melt) you need to chisel this off leaving nothing to fix it back on so I resorted to a couple of blobs of weld but I don"t imagine this is the "factory" solution. I`m tempted to buy a pair of parts to try it out.





part numberless widget for connecting inner clutch cable to clutch push rod worm drive actuating arm. grooves worn in by contact with actuating arm





cable slips in through split but this may be why they are never attached to NOS clutch cables





if widget is missing cable can"t connect to arm. dismantled assy re-attached by welding blobs instead of original peening method





secured. not possible to turn part upside down to use unworn side is cable nipple sits inside hollow which only appears at bottom



Moving onto the RHS, the problems here were to do with mysterious shearing of the nylon tachometer drive gear 248-17830-00. As you can see the end is a bit messed up. There are NOS ones on Ebay but you have to be careful as, although they all look the same, there are the usual part no. complications:



I"m using my CS2E parts book with ultra rare CS3E supplement   (which only runs to 5 pages as there were so few differences between the models) but I have a USA CS3C/CS3B book and CS3B supplement also. In the CS3C/CS3B book it lists the part no. as 237-17831-00 while AS3 & RD125 parts lists have mixtures of the above nos like 248-17831-01 so, while I was tempted by parts listed as being for those bikes if the price was cheap,  in the end I decided to go for a 2nd hand one as I could see the bike it came from was definitely a CS3.





nylon tach drive gear looked damged and seemed to be held on by strange metal cap





cap was actually very close fit washer/shim





clearly damaged. how did it occur?





rear face shows signs of strain also



By a strange quirk I could kill two birds with one stone buying the second hand gear as I neeeded a replacement oil pump shaft 174-13175-00 for my RD125 as I damaged the original by leaving it in rust eating fluid for around 20 years and when I found it the plastic wheel had melted but so had some of the worm drives   .



The oil pump shaft on the CS models is the same as the RD125 (although the oil pump drive gears are definitely different since the CS3 part only has 20 teeth whereas the AS3/RD125 part 132-13178-01 has 34!) and the seller had one of these in good nick meaning I solved my problems plus had a spare CS3 oil pump drive gear should I ever need it.





new recruits. L-R: original CS3 oil pump drive gear (20T) on original shaft; Ebay used CS3 oil pump shaft (to use on my RD125) with spare CS3 oil pump drive gear (20T) (RD125 has 34T); Ebay used CS3 tacho drive gear





when re-assembling make sure shim is on back and front of tacho drive gear





to refit oil pump drive to casing it cannot go through oil seal, so....





....nut, toothed washer, plastic drive gear and pin need to be removed from other end and shaft pushes through this way





and this is what comes through





then refit pin which engages with slots in underside of plastic gear





put gear back on followed by tooth washer and nut



Well, that was another marathon post    and I"m falling behind because a lot more has been done since. Next posts will be re-fitting oil pump and re-painting oil tank

[Foy(notFox)]

I"ve done a couple more jobs on the CS3 but am falling behind with updating the thread so altho its half 2 in the morning I think I better post something.



In the last post i was fitting various bits to the engine cases.....well I noticed the on of my oil lines was split which I thought would be a pain to find suitable pipe to replace but last year some time I bought a second hand CS3 throttle cable assy and the guy threw in a few other parts. Amongst them were two oil pump lines. I thought there was no way they"d be the same as there are a couple of variations on the oil pump arrangement and also the USA bikes often seem to have rigid white plastic oil lines rather than simple black tubing.



Turns out the oil lines were exactly the same apart from being more rubbery. The ones on my UK bikes are quite brittle. Although only one of the originals had split I thought it best to change both.





split found in one oil line when working on RHS engine case  







in amongst some odds and ends thrown in with Ebay purchase were 2 oil lines







short Ebay one matched split original although slightly thicker and more rubbery







other one was same as long one from my bike. result







lines will snap if you try to pull them off. remove this little black clip then push off with small screwdriver







sorted but metal gear for tacho drive was stiff to turn



In the last post I was re-installing the nylon drive gears but it worried me that the tach drive cog seemed stiff to yurn and this could then damage the nylon gear agian so i took it back out casing and polished the shaft with some fine wet n dry paper then oiled it all and it spins freely now. So glad I checked this out rather than assuming it would be fine. I took them out when the cases were powder coated so figured nothing could be wrong with them.





top fitting pulls out after removing screw and plate from top of casing





shaft and gear can then be withdrawn





When I was re-fitting the oil pump the other week I found it was hard to scew the two 5mm scrws into the casing but didn"t have a tap to clean them out. I resisted the temptation to force them in and bought a tap for a few ?s off Ebay. It proved to be well worth it as the threads were full of swarf dirt which must have came from being blasted by the powder coaters.





oil pump securing screw hole threads needed cleaned with tap  





plenty dirt came out





5mm x 0.8 pitch tap showing muck from screw holes





There are still a couple more items to report on for this casing believe it or no then I can move onto the paint I am doing on the oil tank which is the only part of the tinware I can"t find NOS.

[Foy(notFox)]

Finally getting to the end of the posts on the engine cases and associated parts.....



I don"t know whether to try and save the clutch basket I have by filing the wear marks down. I believe you can do this to get more life out of the part.



I can"t find a replacement with right part no. but am taking a chance on one with a similar part no. as its not too dear and there"s only one way to find out if it will work!



As usual there is a part no. anomally: the YCS1 & YCS2 parts list show the basket as 174-16105-00 and the USA CS3C/CS3B show 174-16105-01. The UK YCS3 book only lists the parts which changed when the CS2 became the CS3 and it only indicates the clutch springs changed so it would be safe to assume the YCS1/2 part will fit the YCS3/CS3C/CS3B models but pictures of the earlier part show it does differ slightly in shape to the one on my bike which must therefore be the later 174-16105-01 part although it is a UK YCS3



To further confuse matters the central boss has part no 174-16371-00 in the YCS1 parts book and 174-16371-01 in the YCS2 book although they have the same clutch basket numbers so that suggests either boss can fit the early clutch basket so might be worth the gamble buying the early part.



The YCS1 parts list shows only 2 cut outs on the dog on the back of the clutch basket but this is innacurate as the pictures I have seen of the earier part show it does have the same 4 cut outs as the later part.





clutch basket showing typical wear on fingers. saveable?





my basket, like one in YCS2/3 parts books, has 4 cut outs on rear dog. YCS1 parts book shows only 2 cut outs in illustration but is not accurate





internal shape differs from earlier part. ink date stamp shows part made 31-7-1971



The oil pump could finally be fitted with a new gasket now that the threads in the casing have been cleaned out but that lead to more checking. In a previous post I went into detail about the oil pump shaft and nylon gear. The end of the shaft which goes into the pump has a very shallow gear on it and I found that spinning the shaft be hand hardly moved the pump but occasionally it would catch and you would see the plastic wheel on the pump move. I was a bit concerned about this and tried the other shaft but it made no difference and there doesn"t appear the be any wear on the parts. I vidioed the movement that I got on my phone but have not managed

 to upload these yet     





end of shaft has gear which locates with gear inside pump. white plastic wheel on pump body can be seen moving very slowly if shaft turned rapidly by hand when pump re-fitted to casing



So a couple of things still to be sorted but next post will be about tinware and new chrome

[Foy(notFox)]

As I"ve said before I set out to build this bike from scratch from NOS parts but this wasn"t possible so its a mixture of NOS and second hand.



I did however mange to find almost a whole set of NOS tinware in Metallic Purple (34). Only think I couldn"t find was the oil tank altho there was on on Ebay about 5 years ago and I missed out on it.



Anyway I have bought paint which I think will be a good match and am ready to respray it becuase the one on the bike really spoils the look of the bike.



I stripped the paint of with Nitoromors, stripped the rust off with by immersing in B&Q Metal Cleaner mixed with lots of water and it is now etch primer and ready for primer filler, basecoats candy then clear.



One interesting thing about the CS3 paintwork is that although the tanks and side panels only have a thin white stripe on them the whole item is actually painted white then masked up, candy colour applied then masking peeled of to leave white stripes. Would it have been easier to paint the tanks the candy colour then apply white stripes? Only Yamaha of 1971 would be able to answer that.





RHS of bike really let down by appearance of second hand oil tank





seat trim also damaged on RHS but I have better seats





various rubbers and securing bolt need to be removed for repainting





oil glass retaining ring easily damaged by chiselling to unwind it. this one came out very easily





lens, seal etc lift out once ring has been removed





paint stripper applied. purple paint is white underneath





white stripes harder to shift than rest of paint. part has some rust on it





heat marks from original welding can be seen on rear once all paint removed





part not badly rusted but immersion in rust remover gets pitted areas clean as a whistle





etch primed. front.....







.....and back







found a candy colour by Metalflake Corp which looks a good match (Maroon C6)







Metalflake have discontinued C6 but here is NOS part next to paint I found which seems to be a copy of the Metalflake range of colours

[Foy(notFox)]

Small update.....



I have received the headlamp rim back from the chrome platers. It looks good but cost about ?30 which I thought was quite pricey. Was done by the London Chroming Co. and they seem to charge more than the other platers I have used like Niphos and Marque Restore.



The rim was a second hand UK one - part no. 237-84315-00 which is what most people will come across on headlamps from the small twins circa "69 - "73 but, as mentioned in my earlier post, there were different rims used in different countries but they all fit the 237 headlamp shell.



I have got 2 USA sourced CS3 headlamps 273-84320-60 with 233-84115-60 rims which have adjustment screws on the rim to move the light unit.



I should have maybe got one of those rims re-plated but at the time I sent the UK one away I didn"t know about the different types.





237 rim re-chromed





and again without flash to try and capture chrome appearance



I still haven"t decided what to do about the clutch basket. There are several on Ebay just now advertised as being for the YCS1 right thru to the RD200 but, as mention earlier, the parts books indicates the YCS1 basket was different to the later models and also had a different central boss. All the ones for sale are the same (early YCS1 type) and different to mine so if I buy one I might then have to search for an early boss.





my CS3 clutch basket and boss. part no"s 174-16105-01 and 174-16371-01





CS3 basket side view showing gear close to alloy basket





YCS1 part seems to have larger gap between gear and alloy. significant?





internal shot of same part shows difference in alloy casting round central hole. early part can also be identified by different shape casting at bottom of fingers. not square like later part





another early part from a different seller





and a 3rd one





The parts look very similar but I fear that they might not be interchangeable.



This evening I bid on a NOS CS3B/C wheel rim from the USA at a price I can"t afford. I am scared to see if I won it as it will cost about ?80 all in   . If I don"t win it I may spend the money I saved on the clutch basket.

[Foy(notFox)]

There has been a lot of activity with the CS3B rebuild recently and a lot of pictures to upload and shrink a lots to write which can be a bit daunting so I"ll deal with them in 3 or 4 seperate posts.



The areas are:- the oil tank re-spray; the 2nd hand bits and pieces ordered from USA to obtain the elusive rear brake torque arm spring; the clutch basket conundrum, fuel tank re-respray, the purchase of a NOS rear sprocket for 2 quid and the arrival of some ultra rare YCS flat bars    and a new one....the 174/193 battery box mix up oh, and there is also the 9?,10?, 12? control cable puzzle but I"ve not sorted that out myself yet....  



Easy one first. I finally got 174-25374-00 SPRING, tension bar and, as Concorde7 pointed out, it is just a thick rubber washer but I"m pleased with it. It might be 40 years old but it was still a very tight fit in the lug on the swing arm so the years have been kind to it. As I mentioned before I prefer good second hand originals to NOS and this is an example why. Along with the rubber the seller sent me the nut bolt and washer that go with it for the grand total of ?3.33 and I had just bought a NOS one for ?1.51 but that one had a superceeded part no. 90109-08068 and there is a small difference. The head is smaller on the NOS part.







bundle of used parts from USA. 3 lots from Ebay. front axle and fittings. clock wiring and damper. brake arm front fixings





at RHS top are torque arm bolt/nut/washer and rubber "spring"  





90109-08068 almost identical to 174-25373-00. head is smaller on later part

[Foy(notFox)]

next one....



after all the fretting over the different part nos for the clutch basket I took the plunge and bought the "wrong" one. The seller actually included the original box and packing which was missing the part no. sticker but had been written on various times over the years with one inscription suggesting it was for an RD200 electric which was heartening. I figured that all the people who handled it before couldn"t have been wrong and it would indeed fit my CS3 although it was technically the earlier YCS1 part.







original packaging shows storemen"s identification scribbles over the years in absence of part no. sticker



I have now compared it against the old part and all the dimensions are the same and it fits perfectly so what could"ve been an expensive mistake has turned out fine. Just under ?30 all in for a brand new clutch basket  







fingers are the same





everything looks the same on rear. drawing in YCS1 parts book suggest early part only has 2 cut aways on dog but 00 part has four, same as 01 part







baskets are same height and gears are same width







used 01 part re-fitted with thrust washers etc to establish how high central boss sits on shaft







NOS 00 part shows same result although the casting around central boss is different

[Foy(notFox)]

Another quick one.....



I wasn"t looking out for a rear sprocket, as there is a used one on the bike, but when this NOS one came up on Ebay for ?1 or so I had to bid on it. ?2.40 was final price  .



It is a 39T part but the parts list shows you could get a 37, 39 or 40 plus a 14 or 15 up front. At this price you could almost afford to try every permutation to see which it best!





bargain buy NOS sprocket. front.....





.....and rear







39 at end of middle part of number identifies the number of teeth





My CS3B project has the high 174-26111-10 HANDLE "UP" bars and I have sourced cables to suit. The high bars were the normal fitment in the USA and as that is where most parts can be sourced from nowadays it is easier to get the cables for these bars but any original UK CS3Es are likely to have the medium height bars or sometimes the flat racing type ones and I have never seen cables come up for sale for them but when I stumbled across an original set of flat 174 bars on Ebay I had to buy them. God knows how I will get cables for them tho   .







rare find. NOS 174-26111-20 flat bars. ?13 plus P&P







original scuffed part no. sticker just readable







writing on sticker appears to say "2 ON PIC  VERY EARLY GEN YAM (MID) LATE 60S DRILLED"





As I have two full sets of tinware - one blue, one purple - I"m thinking I could swap between UK spec CS3E blue with low bars and USA spec purple with high bars.

 

[Foy(notFox)]

Last year I posted details on the site about re-spraying my original UK CS3E tinware using RS Paints" match for Marine Blue (75) http://www.aircooledrdclub.org.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17492&PD=1



I was quite happy with the results but had not got round to doing the clearcoat on the fuel tank because I wasn"t sure if the Metalflake brand clear acrylic lacquer I use is petrol resistant and also because there were a couple of areas on the tank which hadn"t got enough blue on them and a lot of the silver base was visible.



I feared messing the job up by respaying more blue on top as the paint sent by RS paint is quite thick and this is a problem with candies because it is better to apply several thin coats to build up colour without losing the translucent quality of the paint but I found with this stuff 3 was really as far as you could go. I also had to re-mask the white stripe to prevent any overspray getting on it.





resprayed parts. lamp bowl has had clearcoat. some areas on tank have very little blue on them







pale areas on top of tank





The re-masking was actually pretty easy and the bare areas are now a good bit darker. Just the clearcoat to do now. I still think the paint is supplied too thick as is is going on slightly heavy and mottled whereas lighter thinner coats would give a better candy effect.







white stripe re-masked prior to putting some more blue candy on pale areas







masking tape coming back off







paint looks quite dark/opaque but in natural light candy effect is fine

[Motty]

Graham



Do you know how many miles that clutch basket has done, it looks extremely worn?



Richard