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"Overflowing fuel bowl".  You don't have a hope of setting the jetting with a flooding issue, which is likely to be a sticking float valve that needs polishing. Any other problems with fuel or ignition must be sorted.  Generally, inconsistent response shows that there are problems.  Another thing is battery. The points ignition is a bit touchy and you must have a fresh fully charged battery and have good timing and points gaps etc.
I would expect that one of the standard 350 set-ups will be close, and I think it would be the "350B" with remote air feeds etc.

Hope you get on OK.
 
5port
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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: Joining Air Boxes on RD250D/350
« Last post by Whitey on November 25, 2022, 10:33:12 PM »
Just a short update on this project…
I had a temporary good result with returning to 2.5 Slides, 120 Main and everything else the same, but the good result wasn’t consistent.

So, I’m pulling the re-build back a few stages and working through a few bugging issues like leaky fuel tap, overflowing fuel bowl, potential bad connection in ignition, and some brake and suspension upgrades.

I’m also going to go through the carbs again to make sure everything is clear and refurb the choke and move back to oil pump and not pre-mix - Then I’ll further fine tune the jetting.

Thanks to all for their help this far


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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: problems with rd400g wont rev in lower rpms
« Last post by 5port on November 25, 2022, 09:08:18 PM »


i have somehow sorted it,

Great.  Nothing to do with the advice you have had then. 

5port
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Hi manueljose, nice looking bike hope you managed to get it sorted.
Interested to know  where you managed to get your 5j6 needles from pretty much impossible to find here in the UK.
Cheers sloath

i have somehow sorted it, it still hangs below 1000rpms sometimes specially when cold but not like before, before it was undrivable in slow traffic, but it has been raining here like crazy and I'm still in the process of breaking the engine in. i have not reached 200 miles below 4000rpm i yet have 25 to go, hopefully the weather allows it this weekend. then i can increase to 5000 rpms for 100 miles more.

because i think this is happening because it still needs better jetting, but wont be able to jet ii correctly until fully broken in. i don't know if I'm being anal about the break in period, but too much money invested on this bike to just floor it from the begining.



the 5j6 needles i got from https://hodaka-parts.com/item.asp?PID=6227 in the USA.  it took a while to get them, but finally became available they still have them.
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Sorry for red herring but now you're certain that bit of wiring right. Lesson even Yamaha manuals can be wrong  ::)
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If you are just trying to check for a spark, any good spark plug will do… you are only going to rest it against the fins…
In fact you don’t even need a spark plug, the lead will throw a spark on to a fin directly if you have it anywhere close to it..

The bottom line is you’re whole ignition system looks very dirty and corroded. That is almost certainly going to mean there low resistance leakage paths that will render it in operative..

These bikes are just an typical example of ‘old school low tech’ auto engineering… no computer required… BUT… if you are really not comfortable and clued up on how a typical points ignition system works then maybe best to read some type of beginners  guide … then return to this particular engine..

This how my coils are connected, is this right? do I need to switch something out? The coil which has white sticker with "1" is left coil.

Pidjones wiring diagram shows the left coil should have grey wire, Right should have orange which your picture shows reversed  ::). When you look at points face on, check the LH points has grey which goes to LH coils and right orange. Otherwise, your timing is 180 deg out. However, you should still get spark  ???

PS
Checking my 200 the colours are as you presently have. Can anyone confirm if the wiring diagram is in error! However, if you do the colour check at the points as above that will be definitive
Facing points the orange is connected to left point and grey to the right point.
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I mean turn key to ON, kill switch to RUN and then kick it over for spark. One spark of mine didn't fire off because the point was grounding out. You have to look at it with a magnifying glass to make sure your point actually opened or closed. Clean with carb cleaner on paper and close point and drag the paper out. Should have a lot of resistance

I shine my headlamp at a certain angle from the side of the points to make sure they are contacting. Otherwise you are right very easy to be fooled by just looking at it.
Both my Ignition has to be at first position and kill switch to run for me to get voltage at points.
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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: problems with rd400g wont rev in lower rpms
« Last post by Sloath on November 25, 2022, 05:56:47 PM »
Hi manueljose, nice looking bike hope you managed to get it sorted.
Interested to know  where you managed to get your 5j6 needles from pretty much impossible to find here in the UK.
Cheers sloath
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Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Float Valve Washer
« Last post by Whitey on November 25, 2022, 03:06:22 PM »
Hi,

Just looking at the washer that came with the new float valve from Yambits. It’s metal and the OG part on CMSNL looks like a fiber washer - is that right?

Just wondering if they are different has anyone had any issues with the metal ones?

Thanks

Kev


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Not my diagram, just linked from this site. And, you are correct AG, this error was noted in a forum post earlier this year.
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