Author Topic: Tank Sealer  (Read 654 times)

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Offline BobV07662

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Re: Tank Sealer
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2019, 10:04:48 PM »
I used the POR-15 three years ago and it's still leak free. To preserve the balance tubes I inserted vinyl coated wires and removed them after it cured.
Follow the directions and make sure it is absolutely dry and water free before the coating process. A heat gun works wonders here.
If I had to do over, I would have extended the coating up into the filler well in order to prevent any paint/gasoline issues.

Offline Colin Johnston

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Re: Tank Sealer
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2019, 10:13:13 PM »
POR15 turned up from Demon Tweeks - Oh look it comes from Frost but it is cheaper due to postage costs.
Warning
The Frost instructions that came with kit has errors. Somebody has edited to look pretty but cocked up.
Download the instructions from
https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-motorcycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit.html
Then it all makes sense. ;D

Presume blowing through with compressed air before hair dryer okay to remove water. Its home compressor, Peek rings, no oiler and filtered to remove water etc
Thank you Colin for cable tie idea to blank balance pipes  - The important info is to unblock before sealant set. How did you determine when nearly dry Colin. :)

Weather sounds awful for weekend so will wait for warm patch! :(

Cheers
-Mike
Don’t know if I can explain this correctly, when you pour the liquid in, it has the consistency of paint, but as it starts to set, it becomes much thicker & gloopy. At this point, you have to drain off excessive liquid in the tank, I used the hole of the petrol tap mount. As the liquid was draining I removed the cable ties, allowing some sealant to drain out & then inserting cable ties again to make sure balance tubes are clear.
I hope this helps you Mike


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Online RDDave

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Re: Tank Sealer
« Reply #17 on: March 15, 2019, 10:52:05 AM »
For the balance pipes i used a couple of lengths of plastic strimmer cord and wrapped a bit of tape around the end to seal, only push in so level with bottom of tank as any excess will be covered in sealer and get wiped off as you pull the cord out, possibly blocking the pipe, if you know what i mean. I usually blow back up the pipe just to make sure its clear... ;) I think i pull the cord out after approx 1hr and never had a problem. Like Kevina says the POR15 kit leaves a good finish, i would definitely recommend it... :)

Online Barnett

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Re: Tank Sealer
« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2019, 11:44:44 PM »
when I used sealers in a past life in order to remove the water from the tank, dry as much as you can, pour in half pint of meths and swish round, drain and dry again with air, finishing with warm air. meths mixes very well with water and due to its properties gets into all the nooks and crannies actively seeking out the water and drawing it into solution. The water will evaporate off along with the meths which should leave no residue.
I avoid sealers at all costs now, get in such a mess and its such a pain. Rust doesn't bother me, or the bikes as long as its not too bad.
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Offline Astute Greaser

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Re: Tank Sealer
« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2019, 08:52:58 PM »
Hello Mike, when I did mine I used very small cable ties, pushed in the holes, but won’t go all the way in, as the fastener of the cable tie stops it & then refitted an old balance pipe.
When the tank sealant had nearly dried, I removed the balance pipe & cable ties. It worked for me.
Good luck


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So during the good weather last week got the POR15 done.
So I'd done first two stages of cleaning and rust prep.
Onto Sealer.
I'd had all sorts of ideas to blank the balance pipes. Colin had clearly the same problem, the 90obends are very tight. I managed one large and one smaller cable tie (cut down in length) per pipe, sealed with gaffer.
Final stage of pouring in the sealant.
After swilling around to do the bottom and sides took the plunge ?. Masked around the filler rim, sealed with gaffer tape and applied tight rubber band. Turned tank upside down, swilled to coat filler neck and top of tank before righting up. The gaffer swelled up from the fumes of the exothermic reaction. Removed gaffer but despite my best care care still got product on my paintwork - thankfully kitchen towel and meths cleaned it up.
Allowed about an hour and could see product was coating all surfaces before removing blank from fuel tap hole. Shocked that what seemed half of what was poured in ran out. They said to pour back in tin but I'd used big aluminum foil baking tray which caught it all. Cleaned with meths again as getting surplus from other side of tank is awkward.
So now pulled the cable ties out. One side easy, the other needed pliers to pull as product clearly setting. Blowed through with air as insurance and left till evening. Pushed fresh cable ties through to see okay but pliers side was tight, imagine hole was more like slot.
Worried slot could act like Schrader valve letting air in but not let fuel out. I used 1mm solid copper wire, pushed thro to perforate slot . Then bent small hook on end, pushed and pulled again. Nothing bigger other than cable tie would go up there, even odd length of bicycle brake cable would not bend enough.
5 days later blowed tank with air through filler and balance pipes. Thought I'd be clever and sucked on pipe that was awkward to prove no non return affect. It was fine, however I was coughing my guts up, the fumes! :-[  dohh.
The look inside the tank is brilliant, everywhere coated with pleasing silver effect.
I did not however enjoy this job, messy plus worrying about dropping tank or damaging paintwork. It had to be be done and hopefully will work for long time.
Thanks Colin and everyone else for help.

Offline Colin Johnston

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Re: Tank Sealer
« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2019, 09:01:27 PM »
Glad you got it done & I agree it’s not an enjoyable job, but I did my tank before it’s new paint job, so wasn’t worried about a little leakage.
Hopefully should last you for years & try to stick to Esso & Shell super unleaded as they have no ethanol in some parts of the U.K.


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