Author Topic: Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild  (Read 21350 times)

Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« on: August 28, 2010, 12:18:12 PM »
Back before the MotoGP season started Ed Franklin (the guy who makes the great looms  





First thing to do was send the cases, barrels and heads off to TSR Dave for the "treatment" !!  





First, find the gearbox and selectors









Cleaned them up and prepared to start the rebuild









Then i spotted this









One of the top casing bolts had sheared off when Ed stripped the engine  





Now i can start the rebuild



The "eagle eyed" of you will have spotted the front sprocket still attached to the gearbox shaft, and the electrics and drives are still on each end of the crank, so i will have to "Dry" build the cases to lock them up amd remove the sprocket etc.



Then i will split the cases again to fit new seals.



Fortunatly the bearings are all ok  



More soon



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Offline GAZZATT2

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2010, 12:50:30 PM »
why not hold them in a vice with wood packing/soft jaws as protection for the shaft and crank  ?
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Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2010, 01:16:18 PM »
 
Quote from: GAZZATT2
why not hold them in a vice with wood packing/soft jaws as protection for the shaft and crank  ?




         



Would love to   , i have lots of tools in my shed, but only a small vice   , not big enough for them, sadly.



Must get a bigger vice for Xmas  

 

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Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2010, 01:21:26 PM »
Hi Guys



The next installment of Eds 350 rebuild  





Push the selector drum through the case and then mount its sprocket









Then fix it with its circlip









Push through the rear selector arm rod, mount the arms and fix with its internal e clip









And the same with the front rod (no circlip this time)









Then find the selector drum external mounts









Then fit, these are normaly fixed with soft cross head screws, i always replace them with stainless allen key heads  





Then find your "cam" stopper ("detent plunger" thanks Keef  





Fit this and the oil drain plug









It is also a good idea to fit the front selector rod blank now, as this rod is not secured until the gears are mounted with the clutch on the otherside, and it can slide out  





Next locate all the gearbox bits









Dont forget these mounting circlips in the rear bearing faces









I always start with the front gear shaft, just drop it in









Then gently "jiggle" the rear shaft in, making sure the bearings locate on the circlips









Next the crank and sealing up the cases  

 

 
« Last Edit: October 06, 2012, 04:45:06 PM by Admin »
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Offline RDly

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2010, 01:29:25 PM »
Nice job Steve  

I've got a shitty shed full of shit!

Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2010, 01:34:56 PM »
 
Quote from: RDly
Nice job Steve  



It might be worth mentioning at this point, what you call the "cam stopper" is actually called the "detent plunger" and a badly compressed or broken spring is the cause of many missed gears  




Thanks Keef, will edit my thread      



Steve
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Offline Colin987

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2010, 04:44:33 PM »
Most interesting and usable - keep it up!



Colin
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Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2010, 01:29:56 PM »
Next phase, fitting the crank and closing the cases  





First push the drive shaft through the case and fix the first e clip, then the worm gear









Then lock the worm gear on the shaft with the second e clip









Then fix the locking plate on the outside of the case, again i use stainless allen key heads, rather than the soft cross heads used by Yamaha  





Then the outer drive gear can be fitted with its e clip









and the tacho drive gear is fitted









Now i return to the lower case to fit the crank, here are the bits









First, locate the bearing guide circlip into he case









Then you can drop the crank in place with its new seals, check that the bearing is located in its guide and that the seals are located by their grooves









Now make sure you can see the "pips" on the bearing cases









Rotate the bearing cases towards the front of the engine until the "pip" are inside the notches in the case.



Next fit the drive sprocket seal and clutch push rod seal









Now we are ready to fit the upper case, apply a THIN bead of gasket fluid (Yamabond/Hylomar etc) to the mating faces, and gently drop the upper case into position.



Make sure everything (Bearings, seals etc) line up.









I fit the 8 10mm bolts into the top of the case first and tighten them gently, and check the two faces come together easily.



Then i turn the engine on its "arse" to fit the lower bolts









Again i tighten these bolts gently and again check all the faces have closed up evenly.



Only when everything is mated nicely and the seals and bearings are correctly located to i ....



First torque up the bottom nuts (2kg) and then the top case bolts (1kg)









Remember i said "apply a THIN bead of gasket fuid", well now turn the crank through about 90 degrees, you will probably see this









Its a thin film of gasket that has been forced out into the crank well, remove this with a cloth, rotate the crank through 180 degrees and you will probably see this again  



Next the external gear selction assembly, kickstart and clutch  



Steve
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Offline Jayakrishnan Nair

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2010, 06:26:44 PM »
Gr8 step by step guide Steve...much appreciated for the guidance...for the bearing guide and mounting circlips any idea about the part numbers...am not having enough count of  them as expected( i suppose it shud be around 6) correct me if am wrong. cheers
Jay

Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #9 on: September 06, 2010, 04:18:47 AM »
Hi Jayakrishnanv



There are 3 "half moon" circlips that fit into the lower case only.



The ones for the large bearing on the rear gearbox shaft (sprocket drive draft) and the primary drive side bearing on the crank, are the same. Their partnumber is 278-17424-01-00



The smaller one on the rear gearbox shaft is 278-17425-00-00.



The larger bearing on the forward gearbox shaft (clutch) has a full circlip fitted to the bearing before fitting into the crankcase, its part number is 93440-52009-00.



Hope this helps



Steve
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Offline Jayakrishnan Nair

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #10 on: September 06, 2010, 06:51:59 AM »
Thank you very much Steve..found the bits from the box and its going to go in.
Jay

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2010, 08:01:08 AM »
OK, on with the engine rebuild



First a little tidying up on the drive side



Fit the other "blank" seal and a new neutral switch









Then back to the otherside and start with the primary drive



Here are the bits









There is a nack to the next bit, fit the seal (with seal nipple facing up) at the TOP of the shaft and put a little lube on the seal and shaft.









Next fit the drive gear gently at the top, resting on the seal









Now, with your finger, or a small screwdriver, reach round under the gear and gently push the seal nipple into the key way in the bottom of the gear, until everything is flush with the underside of the gear.









You can then, gently push the gear and seal down along the shaft, making sure the gear slots nicely into the crankcase seal, and fit the woodruf key.









Then the special washer (domed upwards) and nut









I would have done some more this morning but when searching in Ed"s boxes for the Clutch centre bracket, i couldnt find it, so i went to another engine i"m restoring to "rob" the piece ............



But unfortunatly this one is broken









So tomorrow i"ll have to get on to Granbys for 2 of them (unless anyone has some spares  





     
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Offline Steve75

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #12 on: September 12, 2010, 09:31:51 AM »
Hi Steve,

This thread is really good!  Where did you get that special little primary gear seal from in the most recent post?  I see HVCcycle in USA do repro ones, and I did ask Motoward if he had any but didn"t...so is it re-used or new from somewhere as I"d ideally liek a new one, unless you think re-using this particular seal is OK to do so?

Steve
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Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2010, 09:45:54 AM »
Hi Steve



They are reproduction seals and are available from Jonney at P G M Y A M A H A      

 

Steve
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Offline Sfbrain

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Ed's 350 Engine Rebuild
« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2010, 12:18:29 PM »
Hi Guys,



Back from Aragon and the new bits needed have arrived so on with the rebuild



Find the gear selector bits









Fit the spting over its lug and spread the ends round the pin









Next spread the claws at the end of the selctor arm and push the arm onto its shaft "jiggling" it until it sits down inside the spring









Then lock down with its e clip









This is where the "top hat" fits, but dont fit it now, it is just a location fit and it easily falls off and can be lost at this stage. we will be back to it shortly.









Now i can fit the bearing clamp (again with allen heads)









Now get together the kick start bits,









The big washer goes at the bottom of the assembly









Drop the assembly into the case and locate the loop in the spring into the recess in the cases









The small washer goes on the "splines" end, on top of the circlip









Next collect all these bits









Fit the "wavey" washer on the small shaft









and the big washer/thrust on the clutch shaft









The central gear assembly can now be fitted, locting with the kickstart gear and the tacho drive gear, and located with its washer and circlip









Now the clutch centre bearing/guide can be fitted









It should now look like this









Collect these bits together next









Remember the "top had" bearing, well now is the time to fit it









Push the gear change rod through the cases from the clutch side, fit over the top hat bearing to hold it in place









Now over to the other side, "gently" push the new seal over the splines on the selector rod. I find this is a safer way of protecting the seal, rather than fitting it into the cases first









then slide the seal along the rod and push into the cases









and loicate with its washer and e clip









It now looks like this









Clutch next, maybe tomorrow      
RD250E (Running)
DT175C (Almost !!)
FS1E '74 (Running)
RD400E (later)
XS750E (Waiting for time and money)
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