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I pulled the carbs and cleaned them in the fall when I first started having problems, but everything was pretty clean in them. I also put in new air filters then too. I am currently running NGK B8HS plugs.               

I will be honest though I am not hundred precent confident in mechanic skills as I am learning, especially in the carb department.
If right side when sitting on bike then we would suspect a seal, if your seals were gone it would smoke white and burn all your gearbox oil, could be dirty carb overfueling, clogged air filter, wrong heat plug, what plug do you use, exhausts are clean are they.
Is there I seal in the engine that could leak oil into the engine? Could this be the problem?
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: Indicator wiring question.
« Last post by hamsav on Today at 12:25:02 AM »
I found with mine the same thing , all the correct bulbs  and the left side would only flash once or twice then stay on ( motor not running )  , the right was ok . Everything works fine with the motor going but  I suspect that the flasher unit was suffering age ...........but I sold the bike before fixing it properly ...........................yeah Im RD-less now  ...................sorta like getting rid of the last kid out of the house  YEEHA !...........but I miss it too and hope Lindsay loves it like I did ( once he fixes the blinkers  ..... snig ger  :D )
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: 521 350b downpipes
« Last post by stukey on Today at 12:16:55 AM »
You can fit C/D ones, but you will have to shorten them and elongate holes for bolts under frame ;)
Take a litre bottle of oil with you , remove the lh side cover to view the tank  and when it gets  down to the last few mm  tip in the new oil. You can just mix it with the old stuff but I  personally couldn't do that (ocd  ::)) I mean  how would you know and realistically you could tip in heaps of litres before the  new oil was pure :D
Events and Regular Club Meets / Re: Ace Cafe "Blue haze" day
« Last post by SupeRDel on May 20, 2018, 11:45:08 PM »
was it Allen Milyard on the 666 kwak ?

He has built quite a few he has sold.
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Indicator wiring question.
« Last post by Reving Kevin on May 20, 2018, 11:38:44 PM »
I picked up a couple of sets of cheapy indicators to fit on my 250E. Did a bit of reading up before hand, and decided that I didn't want to get into messing about with different flasher units and load resistors for LED ones, so got some standard 12v bulb type ones. Thought I'd have a fiddle and fit the back set this afternoon. The new ones have two wires, power and ground (yellow, black), looking under the rear mudguard, I was surprised to see only 1 wire on the Yam ones? My assumption is that the Yam ones ground through the frame, and the flasher interrupts the power feed? Got the multimeter on it, and most of the connections under the seat at that end seem to have continuity to ground???

Further exploration under the mudguard showed that at some point the loom had been pushed too far through the grommet and had had a close encounter with the back tyre for some period I'd guess. Every wire to the tail light and to one indicator was worn through the insulation in large areas, yet, amazingly none were touching each other, or grounding on the frame, so all the lighting was working as it should!

Out with the wire strippers and bullet connectors and tidied that mess up well enough to last till she comes off road. Having identified the wires I then plugged in my plastic fantastic indicator, yellow to power and touched the black to frame - lights up, but doesn't flash, hmmm.

Do I need to put a series resistor in line to activate the flasher unit? I have basic knowledge of electronics, as I build guitar effects pedals as a hobby, but my automotive electrics are a bit rudimentary at the moment - I could stick a potentiometer in line and dial it till it blinks, then read off and insert the right value resistor, or am I barking up the wrong indicator stalk here?
Thanks for the thoughts, Gents. There's quite a bit of oil in the tank, and its running ok on that front, so I'm going to run it down and keep and eye on it. I have clear oil delivery tubes so that's easy. I don't want to be bleeding the pump unless I have too, leave well if all's well.
The Piston Broke / Re: Hotter running due to modern fuels.
« Last post by Phil Featherstone on May 20, 2018, 10:51:32 PM »
From memory A747 is not suitable for injection systems and again form memory has 5% caster but is synthetic base oil
Not used it personally for about 25years
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