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Restorations Diary / Re: Pans RD350B Restoration/Rebuild - Finished!
« Last post by ggreen1959 on Today at 01:54:35 PM »
just finished reading through this for the first time.

What a great job.

You are an engineer,  :) ,great thread and resolution of problems encoutered.
mts - I did mine yesterday. The bracket was way too far down the mudguard.

Disconnect the wires under the mudguard below the light bracke and take the light off, then remove the bracket etc.

Remove he square rubber mounting and refit it the other way up with the big wire feed hole at the bottom instead of the top you will see what to do.

1. Align the bracket bottom holes with the top holes on the mudguard. You will see that the wiring hole in the rubber aligns with the hole in the mudguard and the holes in the bottom of the bracket lign up with the top holes in the mudguard.
2. You can then mark out for the new top mudguard holes.
3. Remove, measure up correctly and drill two new 6mm holes. The 4 holes are an equidistant square pattern.
4. Where the rubber is the wrong way around on the bracket you have to drill a new big hole in the bracket to allow the wires through. Drill and touch up.
5. Refit the bracket in the right place using big washers inside the mudguard for the top two holes to spread the load. Assemble with whatever to prevent corrosion.
6. Plug old holes.
7. You may need to extend the wires by about 3 inches to fit- I did.

Mine looks correct now and it took about 2hrs. Good luck. ;D
Restorations Diary / Re: Rd dx 125 restoration (non standard)
« Last post by Levy1982 on Today at 12:40:17 PM »
More nos goodness

Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk

After testing the wemoto adapter I think I will stick
With that. It actually allows excellent vision over rh shoulder
on the wing mirror being slightly higher. It also looks fine. A simple helicoil is all that is needed.

The bespoke adapter is an excellent fix but
It is possible to test another that might work before
you drill out to 11.9mm where there is only one option (and a single part
available in the entire world ) - imagine ballsing that up ....

That was too much risk for me .....
Pananu - You need to get back in the garage and make a hundred immediately !

Motty would be a worthy person to hold this precious adapter !!!!
£18.67 (postage @£24.99)

Joke !!!
Pm me .
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: New guy needs help.
« Last post by nerradw on Today at 12:30:57 PM »
I believe that might be the wire for neutral, the rubber grommet should push into place into a groove in the engine case and the hook screws into place on the neutral plate

Looks like you are correct. I found a picture showing where the wire goes. Now another question. Can anyone tell me the torque of the bolt that goes through the center of the alternator assembly? I found a post that says 58 ft lbs, but that seems excessive.

Also, is it reverse thread? Reason I ask is I know you use this bolt to turn the motor over when timing, and you turn it in the counter clockwise direction, which would loosen the bolt any time you turn the motor. Am I wrong in thinking this?

I think you will find the torque setting for the bolt that passes through the cam and secures the rotor is listed at the top of page 92 of the Haynes manual (can be downloaded in the tech section of this site) I torqued mine on my 400c to the higher end of the settings given and stretched the bolt nearly stapping it so I got a new bolt from Yambits and only torqued mid range.
Not left hand thread though and no probbs when turning engine over with spanner on bolt head.
If you cant find ref in Haynes then it states 10.8-18.1 ft-lbs.
Hope we're talking about the same bolt but bear in mind these are settings for a 400c.
I need to correct that info it is actually page 92 of the Yamaha service manual for the 400c and not the Haynes
Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / Re: last 2000 rpm
« Last post by 5port on Today at 12:29:11 PM »
 Buy new Mikuni 115 Main jets, 105 is wrong for standard air filter and, who knows what has been done to old jets! ::)   Also,  Decoke downpipes, exhausts and baffles properly.  Check downpipes are not restricted type.  Check headgasket is the thin type.  Check Needle clip position is second from top.  Cheers

Aircooled RD Tech Help 250cc and Above / last 2000 rpm
« Last post by mts on Today at 12:11:57 PM »
rd 250Dx  engined machine

spent another weekend adjusting and tweaking the bike  trying to eliminate the high rev misfire amongst other jobs

bikes running a lot better now and starts great and its is nice and responsive  now in low /mid range   but try as i may i cant get it to pull the last 2000 rpm to the red line through the power band, its like a rev limiter kicks in at 6500 rpm
and the stutter starts  whatever i do  with the throttle.

i initially thought it was  ignition  and have been through it in detail
the  bike has new  coils ,ht leads, caps, points, condensers,  and been retimed a dozen times

had the carbs apart  cleaned out and checked jets  replaced main jet brass seat washers as one was fitted with  a fibre washer  bodge job  slides needle jets are all standard and clean
5L3 needles 105 main jets  new air filter 

any suggestions for something ive missed,  float heights  .. could the reeds be the issue ??  running out of ideas now  :-\  the oil pump is still overshimed as a precaution but cant see that being this issue can it

Jools - can I suggest that if you're not going to use it, you pass it on to someone who does need it?
Motty was after one I think, so as you've found a solution then send it on.
bought a heinz 57 250 D engined machine  which has the rear light  assembly fixed lower down the mudguard as per the older C   the mudguard seems to have the mounting holes as i assume is same for a c / d /e

any one know were i can get the mounting bracket  from for a D/E mounting position   before i cut up the original and refab it ? yambits seem to list the rubber damper but cant find the bracket itself
The Garage Wall / Re: New 250 addition
« Last post by tony2stroke on Today at 11:21:42 AM »
Here is a link for you to get new bits, even some performance bits, HTH
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