Author Topic: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets  (Read 2172 times)

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Offline Blackhat400

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #15 on: October 25, 2017, 08:55:26 PM »
 What would the symtoms  be IF   oNe of the balls were loose .,  as i had running issues, took the carb to a mates ultrasonic cleaner,  , put carb back on ,and it  floods , fouling the plug, ,  he had messaged me, to say hes found a brass ball in the sonic-bath, , so it musta been loose,  its the small one not the big one at 6"oclock,
this problem has been erratic for weeks,  runs sometimes [ on 2 cylinder ] then , pops and runs on one,   

Offline johnb

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2017, 10:45:55 PM »
Why would you want to clean the 0.5mm dia passage from behind the brass ball to the emulsion tube?

As it's a dead end hole sealed by the brass ball how can it affect carburretion in any way?

To me it makes no difference whether the hole is blocked at the end with the brass ball or at the front or halfway through with dirt.

Am I missing the bleeding' obvious?
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Offline Pielight

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2017, 12:58:23 AM »
It's not a dead end...there's a drilling on the brass ball side of the 0.5mm jet that connects to the air box via the float bowl and rubber hose (air supply to emulsion tube) - hence the presence of the said jet.

Offline Neil53

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2017, 09:04:11 AM »
Believe me, that 0.5mm jet needs to be clean for the bike to run properly at low revs

I chased a low speed running problem for a year or so and it was just caused by that jet being blocked!!

Offline Dagosr

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #19 on: October 29, 2017, 04:10:27 AM »
Here is the 3rd and final Episode (Replacing your Balls !! )

You will need ......

Brass 5mm grub screws (I use allen head)
5mm tap
Loctite
Allen keys
Thread guage

(Attachment Link)

First thing to do, for peace of mind, is to use a thread guage to check the thread pitch on the grub screws.
You wouldnt want to tap a wrong pitch thread into your carbs.
Mine are M5x0.8

Gently start to tap the thread ....

(Attachment Link)

You will need to tap to roughly 4 to 5 complete turns of the tap, but if it goes real tight STOP !! you may have reached the bottom.

Once tapped, i go to my air line and blow out any swarf created when tapping, then i just check the jet is still clear with my 0.5mm jet file.

Next put a grub screw on the end of an allen key and apply a thin film of loctite

(Attachment Link)

And screw into your tapped hole, screw in until it starts to tighten.

(Attachment Link)

And then 'The jobs a Goodun' !!

(Attachment Link)

Nice thing is, the next time you need to clean the jets it is much easier to do  :D

Hope that shows that it is not difficult to 'Get Your Balls Out'

 ;)
SFbrain,
I have read in other posts on other 2 stroke sites that these balls need removed for the whole cleaning process but others do not reinstall the balls or any other type plug to close this area back off..??  Can they simply just be left out? or is there a reason that this should be plugged back up?  Thanks

Online 5port

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #20 on: October 29, 2017, 08:54:32 PM »

I have read in other posts on other 2 stroke sites that these balls need removed for the whole cleaning process but others do not reinstall the balls or any other type plug to close this area back off..??  Can they simply just be left out? or is there a reason that this should be plugged back up?  Thanks

If you don't replace the big ball on this standard carb, the air feed to the Air corrector gets the pressure at the bellmouth and, can get crudded-up with oil (it is only 0.5mm).  When I experimented with this and prototyped the grubscrew method, I tried a set of carbs with the ball/grubscrew left out. It caused a rich flat-spot at around 4500. It was cured by replacing the grubscrews.  ;D
With the ball/grubscrew fitted, the air pressure to the air corrector (from the filter tubes) is probably higher than the bellmouth feed.
OTOH, if you are doing the Dale Alexander / Dave Freist  change to Primary type Needle jet, you DO leave the ball out and block the old air feed (on the inside edge of the floatbowl).  ;)

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Offline Jonny Angle Iron

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #21 on: November 14, 2017, 08:22:26 PM »
Great write up Steve, very clear and concise! I'm going to be doing this to a few carb sets over the winter. Just to satisfy my curiosity, would you happen to know what is behind the the smaller ball? and will this need cleaning out also?

Cheers

Jon
All it took was 2 strokes and I was hooked!

Online 5port

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Re: How to take your 'Balls Out' and clear jets
« Reply #22 on: November 22, 2017, 09:04:23 PM »
Great write up Steve, very clear and concise! I'm going to be doing this to a few carb sets over the winter. Just to satisfy my curiosity, would you happen to know what is behind the the smaller ball? and will this need cleaning out also?

Cheers

Jon

 The "smaller ball", next to the big one, covers the front of the drilling for Idle air, back to the Pilot jet.  You clean that passage by removing the Idle air screw, its spring and the Pilot jet then blow clear with carb cleaner and/or airline.  ;)

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