Author Topic: wheel removal  (Read 131 times)

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Offline 76rd200

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wheel removal
« on: June 12, 2018, 07:25:48 PM »
Need to get new tyres fitted to my 1976 125dx so will be taking the wheels off shortly.
I expected that the rear wheel spindle would be able to be withdrawn easily but it appears that it would foul on the standard silencer and so will need them removing first. Am I missing a trick or is something not right as even checking Haynes manual it shows a picture of the spindle being removed with the exhausts in place.
Just seems a poor design to need the exhausts removed before being able to remove a rear wheel.      :-\
Bikes
Yamaha RD125 1976
Kawasaki KH250 1977
Kawasaki Z900 1976
Lambretta Li special 1968

Offline nerradw

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2018, 11:14:56 PM »
Can you gain enough play by removing the shocks whilst on centre stand.
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Offline 76rd200

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2018, 11:48:13 PM »
I'll try that first. Thanks.
Bikes
Yamaha RD125 1976
Kawasaki KH250 1977
Kawasaki Z900 1976
Lambretta Li special 1968

Online ggreen1959

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2018, 09:22:24 AM »
Just lean on the seat to get the head past the silencer! Helps on a pit stand.
Just keep riding.

Offline Barnett

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2018, 08:11:03 PM »
Just lean on the seat to get the head past the silencer! Helps on a pit stand.
exactly what I do on the 125, same problem, once head is past silencer I find I can pull shaft out as normal without having to lean on seat.
Yamaha 1974 RD125 (AS3) nearly finished!
Kawasaki 1977 z650 B1 being ridden
Yamaha 1972/3 U.S. early RD350 in bits

Offline tony2stroke

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2018, 08:29:38 PM »
Just lean on the seat to get the head past the silencer! Helps on a pit stand.
exactly what I do on the 125, same problem, once head is past silencer I find I can pull shaft out as normal without having to lean on seat.

Problem with this is re-fitting when you put wheel back on, are you sure the shocks are the correct length, personally I would say just remove 1 end of the shocks and loosen the other to aid removal and re-fitting.

easier than removing an exhaust  ;)

Offline Alistair64

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2018, 09:41:16 PM »
I did think this when I read it.
Easy to remove the wheel, but how can you use this method to refit it?
I suppose the answer is to stick a block under the swingarm and lean on the seat, although make sure that block is very secure and there's no chance of it sliding out!  :o
1982 Candy red RD200DX
1986 RD350F1

Offline Barnett

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2018, 09:59:27 PM »
no problem refitting wheel, axle clears silencer, its just the head thats the problem, well on my 125 at least, last 3 inches or so. when I get close, pop bike off stand, lean on seat and tap back in, I use small wooden hammer, pop back on mainstand and proceed as normal. shocks completly standard.
this is a typical problem on the early ones, yamaha wanted silencers tucked as high as possible.
Yamaha 1974 RD125 (AS3) nearly finished!
Kawasaki 1977 z650 B1 being ridden
Yamaha 1972/3 U.S. early RD350 in bits

Offline 76rd200

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #8 on: June 13, 2018, 11:45:55 PM »
All going well I should be having a go at it in the morning so will report back.
Thanks for all the tips.
Bikes
Yamaha RD125 1976
Kawasaki KH250 1977
Kawasaki Z900 1976
Lambretta Li special 1968

Offline 76rd200

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #9 on: June 14, 2018, 01:05:57 PM »
Leaning on the seat gave enough clearence  but as the spindle was a little stubborn and I was doing it on my own I decided that removing the shock lower bolt and swinging it away on that side would make life easier with pushing down and persuading the spindle to come out.
Bikes
Yamaha RD125 1976
Kawasaki KH250 1977
Kawasaki Z900 1976
Lambretta Li special 1968